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I Fell in love with Rick Owens’ Biker Mixed Materials Vest (bottom photo), so I decided to hack it.
This is a knitting-sewing combination project, involving a lot of both.
The front is made from several fabrics.
I hesitated a lot about the “wing” at the back. At the end I decided to do it, but toned it down a bit, for less drama…
I’m flying solo on this one, writing my own pattern.
I started by drafting a sewing pattern on paper, based on a jersey shirt I did.I calculated the numbers for knitting the back and sleeves according to the paper measurements, measuring them against the paper pattern as I knit.
THE KNITTING PART:
I want a structured jacket, so the pieces are knitted separately then seamed.
Back and sleeves both knit flat, bottom-up, in bulky 100% wool, on 7mm needles.
The back has darts-like waist shaping, positioned approximately at a 1/3 distance from the side seams.
THE SEWING PART:
To give the fronts some structure, I built them on a layer of black suiting material, that serves both as a lining and as a stabilizer. This is because the blue wool fabric and the velvet are both stretchy.
All fabric-to-knit seams were done by machine.
All knit-to-knit seams were done manually.
The back wing was also attached manually, in case I ever regret and want to take it apart.