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Hubbie wanted a “understated yet flamboyant” casual jacket suitable for spring/ summer/ autumn. He has a leather biker jacket but that’s too warm on occasion, and his formal jackets are too, well, formal :)
He likes wearing interesting clothes which gives room for creativity.
This pattern looked ideal, and Beccki’s project looked good on her boyfriend!
Summary: this is definitely an advanced project, not because it’s technically very difficult, but because the pattern instructions are very limited, and leave out lots of the steps needed to successfully make. I desperately needed a couple of diagrams like you get in Vogue or Style patterns to make sense of the written descriptions of the steps to finish the sleeve cuffs and to set in the side pockets. I used my “Easy, Easier, Easieste” tailoring book a lot to try and make sense of what to do. Maybe those were in the original magazine article, or maybe a real advanced sewer doesn’t need detailed instructions. Like Beccki I did a awful of upicking and re-sewing during the courses of this project.
I was making the jacket in a stretch denim with a gold metallic thread in it and lined it in a orange/gold/brown crafting fabric (to meet the “understated yet flamboyant” brief….). So I double overstitched most of the external seams and outlined the pockets in a thick dark yellow thread to make it look like a denim jacket. And I made the popper closers at cuff and hem visible form the outside. I like the end effect, even if my seams are a bit wobbly.
The biggest challenges I faced were drawing the pattern pieces from the pdf – adding in seam allowances and drawing the variations on the pieces for the front pattern pieces. I’m not convinced I got them right.
If I made it again, also I would change the sleeve cuffs zips to the style on my leather jackets with the zip with a gusset underneath rather than the jean fly style flap in this pattern. I found instructions in Burda Style for adjusting the length of a zip – by the way to 7" and 6" zips both seem too long for the pattern pocket openings. Since I was using brass zips I broke a couple of needles when sewing across the zip teeth. When setting in the sleeves more ease that expected was needed at the front of sleeves – they are tight fitting and my husband couldn’t lift his arm comfortably or stretch them out to the front in the first trial fitting.
The biggest error I made – and the one I couldn’t unpick because I’d mitred the sleeve cuff hems was getting the uderflap at the cuff turned in too far, which meant my cuff “flies” are wider than they should be, and the zip does not line up with the sleeve seam. In the pictures of the mitred sleeve pieces you can see that the underlay does not stick out far enough. Beginner’s mistake I guess, turning on the zip opening line rather than the fold line, but one diagram showing the cuff construction details would have been so useful.
Finally I added an extra pocket into one of the front lining piece – an inside breast welt pocket for wallets – when I was making up the front pieces. Essential in any men’s jacket. I use the instructions from my tailoring book to make that.
The ends result fits, looks good in my opinion, and meets the design brief. And hubbie wears it :)