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I started with Simplicity Pattern 5479 but had to broaden the shoulders in the smallest size. I also lengthened the upper bodice so that the seam line hit further below the breast. Instead of ties being attached in the side seams, I ran a ribbon under the bust held down with two lines of stitching.
I lengthened the upper sleeve piece so that the bell sleeves started at my elbows. The sleeve cap was narrowed to have less easement. I used double fold bias tape in place of hemming or cutting fabric for the collar.
French seams were used throughout