1 / 400
I had to make my usual shoulder alteration. I used “Pattern Perfect” by Nancy.Z to modify the shoulder and armscye. I reduced the width by an inch from each side.
I also reduced the length of the bodice by an inch. This was slightly more difficult than the normal bodice to modify because of the different panels found in the front and in the back of the coat. It took a lot more time to make this coat but I think all the effort is worth it. This is the first time I used these modification on a coat and I think that doing it properly makes a huge difference to the end result and how well it fit.
The pattern called for 5 snaps buttons and 3 buttons to sew outside (they are not functional, just decorative). I used the snaps button on the inside of the bodice only. I also used 5 oversize large self-fabric buttons instead of 3 on the outside. I made the button at the waist functional as I like the extra strength of an actual button hole in that area. I made a welt button hole for that extra bit of class.
I made the lining from the original shell patterns but I modified the back piece to include 3 extra inches of width for extra movements. I pleated the extra fabric so it is shaped like the original piece then I sew it on as per usual.
Lastly I added a medium weight interface to the two panels that make up the front facings. The instructions did not mention doing this but I did, otherwise the coat bodice will not hold up well under all the ruffles or wrinkles when it is buttoned up.