Added Dec 3, 2013
Bristol, United ...
My version of Burda Jacket with Front Zipper 09/2011 #102
Love this pattern, it goes together quite easily, although you do need to pay attention to marking and matching the centre fronts or it could all go horribly wrong.
I made some changes – first (and most obviously) I had to change the pattern from Petite to … whatever not-petite should be called (‘normal’ sounds a bit judgmental!). That was pretty easy after I’d searched the web a bit. I just lengthened all the pattern pieces to match the ‘normal’ (sorry) lengths given in the Burda size charts using the horizontal lines on this grading tutorial (http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4368/making-sense-of-pattern-grading/page/all)
Then I had to grade the pattern up a size, using that tutorial again.
Then I had to do a bust adjustment so the jacket would zip up comfortably – if I wanted a jacket I can’t close I would buy ready-to-wear! I have the DVD “Full Busted?: Sew Clothes That Fit! by Marta Alto and Pati Palmer” which I can’t recommend highly enough.
That was a bit of a marathon, and by the time I’d finished the pattern was more sticky tape than tissue!
I also lined the jacket with a rather lovely jaquard satin lining.
I’m really happy with the finished product, I only wish I’d interlined it, because now the cold weather’s setting in I can’t wear it all the time.
One odd thing – I lengthened the sleeves when converting from petite, when I graded up a size and after I’d tried on the muslin, but I still think the sleeves are a bit short.
Outer – cotton/spandex not-quite-velvet, not-quite-cord
Lining Poly/viscose satin
Tailoring a Jacket for the Perfect Fit and a Professional Finish
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