Added Mar 12, 2012
Usa, United States
My entry for the Vintage Modern Design Challenge is based on Option One, using Indygo Junction’s Trench Topper pattern.
When Downton Abbey’s Lady Mary asked Sir Richard not to print her scandalous secret in his newspapers, she wore a magnificent, full length coat with a distinctive arrangement of buttons. For the VintageModern contest, I decided to update Lady Mary’s Edwardian classic for life in the fast-paced 21st Century.
I started with the Trench Topper pattern and redrafted the collar to resemble the original when buttoned up. Next, I narrowed the loose fitting silhouette, changing it to semi fitted, and I added thick shoulder pads and a full lining. Then, I converted the pattern’s one-piece bell sleeves into traditional, full length two piece sleeves with mitered sleeve vents. Finally, I shortened the garment’s length to hip level, making the new jacket the perfect partner for pants or a skirt.
I added the following design elements from the Downton Abbey jacket: a faux fur collar overlay, three functioning buttons and buttonholes at the center front neckline, two rows of decorative double breasted buttons just below the waist, and a 1.5” wide faux leather contour belt.
My jacket is made of a medium weight, 100% wool flannel in a rich chocolate brown, purchased on sale at Joann’s for just $5 a yard!. I squeezed the fur collar overlay using a tiny remnant of faux Persian lamb recycled from another project. Both the chocolate brown fabric and the faux Persian lamb collar trim were popular choices in the Edwardian era, and they are equally fashionable today. Chocolate brown is one of Pantone’s top colors for Fall/Winter 2012-2013. Faux fur, which has been a must have look during the past couple of years will continue to be a strong trend during the rest of the year.
The matte black, plastic 1.125” La Petite buttons feature a subtle spiral design that adds to the vintage look but does not overpower the rest of the jacket. The 1.125” buttonholes were machine made using the very same vintage Singer rotary buttonholer attachment that sewing expert Mary Brooks Picken would have used near the dawn of the last century.
I constructed the 1.5” wide, black contour belt and the accompanying micropiping using two types of genuine Ultraleather. I covered the belt’s square buckle with a black faux snakeskin trim from Simplicity. The square belt buckle was recycled from a RTW belt purchased on clearance from Walmart for two dollars. The shoulder pads were handmade using a self drafted pattern, felt and fleece interfacing. The full lining is made of black Ambiance Bemberg rayon. The total cost of fabric and notions (excluding the Trench Topper pattern) was less than $30.
I love my new Stop the Presses Jacket and plan to wear it often. I think it has a balanced, timeless look that combines charming, vintage details with up to the minute fashion and style.
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