Added May 21, 2012
Stitch bust darts together in the front bodice, and press downwards toward waist. Stitch darts in back skirt panel, and press towards centre back. Fold one pleat edge to meet the other in the front skirt panel following direction of arrows as indicated on the pattern. Pin down, and baste in place.
Sew two lines of basting stitches on the lower edge of the front and back bodice, leaving long thread tails at each end. Gather lower edges of bodice front and back each to match edge of corresponding skirt piece. Stitch front skirt piece to bodice front and stitch back skirt piece to bodice back. Press seam allowances up.
Fold pleat edges together at shoulder seam edges in direction of arrows and baste.
On lining front bodice, stitch bust darts together and press down, stitch waist darts together and press towards centre front. Fold pleat edges together in direction of arrows as indicated on the pattern, pin down and baste in place. Stitch front skirt lining piece to front bodice lining piece along waistline, and stitch back skirt lining piece to back bodice lining piece along waistline.
Stitch front lining to front self-facing of front bodice, right sides together. Stitch back lining to self-facing of back bodice piece. Turn lining pieces up and stitch to seam allowances, close to seams.
Lay bodice front and back together, right sides facing, and lay lining front on lining back. Pin shoulder seams of main fabric and lining as continuous seams, matching fold lines. Clip shoulder seam allowances of front into corner (fold line). Stitch shoulder seams. Press seams open. Turn facings and lining to inside. Do not press fold edges.
At each shoulder seam, turn armhole edges of main fabric and lining under and pin together with a single straight pin. On front, reach between main fabric and lining to first pull out one armhole. Remove the pin but keep hold of the edges. Stitch armhole edges together, from shoulder seam to side seam, right sides facing. Push edges in place again. Then working from the back, pull out armhole edges and stitch together. Push edges in place again. Sew second armhole in same manner. Stitch lining to seam allowances, as far as possible, close to seam. Press armhole edges.
Turn lining up. Sew invisible zipper to left slit edges, between slit marks as indicated on pattern. Leaving top ends of zipper tape loose.
Stitch left side seam from lower edge to zipper. On lining, stitch left side seam, leaving zipper slit 1 cm (3/8 in) longer than marked, at top and bottom. Then stitch side seam of main fabric, up to zipper. Stitch right side seam of main fabric and lining as continuous seam. Press seam allowances open. Turn lining to inside again, turn edges under, and sew to zipper tapes.
Pin shoulder seams of main fabric and lining together exactly. Sew seams together with a few stitches, by hand. Sew skirt attachment seams together by hand.
Press hem allowance to inside and sew in place by hand. Hem the lining so that it is approx. 2 cm (3/4 in) shorter than the dress.
Cut two pieces of petersham ribbon, each 125 cm (50 ins) long. Form each ribbon piece to a rosette with 5 loops. Sew loops together at the centre. Sew rosettes to shoulder seams.
Behind the seams with Marina von Koenig Part 2
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