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Velvet Jacket for Real People

Added Jan 16, 2012

by wzrdreams

Brooklyn, New Yo...




Step 1 Pattern Prep & Muslin Making (Choosing a Size)


Pattern Preparation:
The pattern has all the pieces for the short and long jacket version as well as the markings for the button holes and pockets so it is easy to pick and choose details.
Add/extend grain lines on all pieces.
Change collar grain line to bias.
Label all pieces including cutters must (number of pieces to cut in each fabric) size and lack of seam allowances & hem allowances to be added when cutting: Seams 5/8”, hems 1 ½”, lining hems 1”
Add ease pleat at CB seam for lining: 1” at CB neck tapered to 0” at the waist.
Add bust point placement following fit chart.

Muslin Making
For the record, I currently measure 41-35-45, my upper bust is 37”, and I am 5’11.5” tall.
I decided to cut a size 44 which closest matches to my body measurements plus ease (hip, waist, bicep all have 2-4 inches positive ease) with the exception of the chest measurement (only ½” ease).
Making the muslin and pattern adjustments is where the lack of seam allowances is helpful. I traced all seam lines and cutting lines with pencil onto medium weight cotton muslin. I added 1 inch seam allowance at front princess seams, shoulder seams, and sleeve caps and also traced the CF line, grain lines, waistline and bust point on muslin to compare with my actual bust point.

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