Added Jan 26, 2011
London, United K...
So, I finally finished my winter coat! This has swallowed up well over 50 hours of sewing time and contains so much handsewing it’s unbelievable. The hair interfacing is all applied by hand, the seam allowances and hems are catchstitched, the collar is padstitched, the lining hems are slipstitched, the bound buttonhole facings are all made by hand. What a labour of love! I mostly followed the tailoring instructions from Gertie’s Lady Grey sewalong.
I made a few changes to the pattern, leaving out the belt, but adding a half belt at the back waist in its place (it’s just stitched into the princess seams). I used the redrafted pocket bags from my first version of this pattern, and moved the pockets up by 2 inches as they hit way too low on my other version. They could even have come higher. I made a 1″ FBA on the front pieces and the fit in the bust is great. The body is interlined with cotton lawn which adds a surprising amount of warmth given its lightness.
My one complaint about this pattern, and something I wish I’d fixed before cutting, was the one piece sleeve! I mean seriously, no RTW coats have one piece sleeves (I’ve become obsessive about checking out people’s coat sleeves on my daily 1.5 hour’s worth of commuting, so I feel I can be quite authoritative on this!), and of all the parts of the coat, the sleeve fit is the biggest let down. I can deal, and I still love this coat (I’d better, given how long I slaved over it!), but I am drafting a two piece sleeve for this baby as soon as I start to think about making another one (hmm, maybe a classic trenchcoat with all the trimmings?)
Tweedy wool blend, lined with polyester habutai, interlined with cotton lawn and interfaced with hair canvas and lightweight fusible
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