Tweedy winter coat

Added Jan 26, 2011

by cd909

London, United K...

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Views

367

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Description

So, I finally finished my winter coat! This has swallowed up well over 50 hours of sewing time and contains so much handsewing it’s unbelievable. The hair interfacing is all applied by hand, the seam allowances and hems are catchstitched, the collar is padstitched, the lining hems are slipstitched, the bound buttonhole facings are all made by hand. What a labour of love! I mostly followed the tailoring instructions from Gertie’s Lady Grey sewalong.

I made a few changes to the pattern, leaving out the belt, but adding a half belt at the back waist in its place (it’s just stitched into the princess seams). I used the redrafted pocket bags from my first version of this pattern, and moved the pockets up by 2 inches as they hit way too low on my other version. They could even have come higher. I made a 1″ FBA on the front pieces and the fit in the bust is great. The body is interlined with cotton lawn which adds a surprising amount of warmth given its lightness.

My one complaint about this pattern, and something I wish I’d fixed before cutting, was the one piece sleeve! I mean seriously, no RTW coats have one piece sleeves (I’ve become obsessive about checking out people’s coat sleeves on my daily 1.5 hour’s worth of commuting, so I feel I can be quite authoritative on this!), and of all the parts of the coat, the sleeve fit is the biggest let down. I can deal, and I still love this coat (I’d better, given how long I slaved over it!), but I am drafting a two piece sleeve for this baby as soon as I start to think about making another one (hmm, maybe a classic trenchcoat with all the trimmings?)

Material Notes

Tweedy wool blend, lined with polyester habutai, interlined with cotton lawn and interfaced with hair canvas and lightweight fusible

Difficulty

Intermediate

Categories

Season
Winter
For
Women
Garment Type
Coat/Capes
Style
Classic, Vintage
Material
Cotton, Blends, Polyester, Wool

Credits

McCalls

6 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • Naburdaprofil_large

    Jan 27, 2011, 07.50 PMby janul

    very nice! I would love to wear it! :)

  • Singer_large

    Jan 26, 2011, 03.42 PMby seersuckersally

    Adorable! I love the collar.

  • Cdtwitterfotoflexer_photo_large

    Jan 26, 2011, 12.49 PMby SimplyTuTuSweet

    Wow!!! I bow to your greatness!!! That is fantastic and I think it looks wonderful on you.

  • Fe31dff8f3b024b2f80c0428a5ae2dd34ad4f556_large

    Jan 26, 2011, 12.12 PMby bussey

    Nice job! It seems deserving all your labours! Love the collar, the fabric, the buttons, and the sleeves look all right – as far as I can see from your pics. I am not so brave, but I am thinking of refashioning an oversize jacket as a coat, adding also a fleece interlining for extra warmth. Any tips (or useful links)? I am a scared novice…

    1 Reply
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      Jan 27, 2011, 03.16 PMby cd909

      gosh, I’m not sure. Grosgrain (burdastyle user) does a lot of refashioning and once did a coat I think. I think that the main things to avoid the oversize look are to make sure the sleeve hangs from the shoulder and that the back fits. so you may need to take out the sleeves and reshape the back or shorten the shoulder line. maybe if you have a coat that already fits you could measure things like the shoulder length and the back width to try to get those right.
      interlining is pretty easy; if you are making a lining then just cut out extra pieces from interlining and treat the two layers of fabric as one. good luck!

  • Me2_large

    Jan 26, 2011, 10.26 AMby Sister Sew

    Your coat came out really nice!! You mentioned the sleeve fit isn’t right since it was made from one piece instead of two. Just curious to know what you feel is the problem.

    1 Reply
  • Fb2227aaf242c0d041dbcd583baae4e4ccfba73d_large

    Jan 26, 2011, 08.26 AMby loulourosa

    Lovely coat, very well done. A coat is a very difficult thing to make! I think the sleeves look allright, mostly coatsleeves have to pieces for a better fit. But maybe for this pattern it isn’t necesary?

    1 Reply
    • Dsc_0008_large

      Jan 27, 2011, 03.17 PMby cd909

      maybe; the pattern isn’t really recommended for fabric as heavy as i used (I have made another version in cotton drill, which is closer to what is recommended). i’ve just become quite picky about fit recently and I think a proper coat sleeve just looks so much better! :D

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