Burda Style For people who sew
Description
Audrey Hepburn and Gabrielle Chanel ‘tie the knot’!
I started this pair of trousers a few months ago but gave up as it required too many adjustments. This garment has been a challenge from the very outset, so only a ‘challenge’ gave me the incentive to complete it the last couple of weeks.
The books Drape-Drape and Pattern Magic are implicit references and I used the Marilyn pattern as a template. The pair of trousers meant to be denominated ‘Triptych 3/3’ (you may want to check out the first and the second instalments) will appear very tame in comparison with this one but I haven’t photographed them yet. They will be a sort of epilogue or sequel to this reshuffled ‘trium vira’.
The fabric used was a real bargain so I decided to give it a go. To my dismay, I stained it (water marks are irremediable on cotton). Still, I perceive it as a work in progress although I always tend to take experiments very seriously.
First of all, I had miscalculated the amount of fabric required. With the Marilyn pattern, it is difficult to adjust the length of the garment after the fabric is cut (it is easier to hem when legs are straight rectangles).There must be a golden rule or measurement for the ankle ‘exposure’. The undercurrent principle of the Marilyn pattern is to draw the attention on the part of the body mentioned above (see Audrey Hepburn wearing her Capri pants). "Butt, hip and waist are ‘right in your face’ ": I hear you say. So far. I have never heard of anyone complexing about their ankles, so, I celebrated this fact by wearing the ‘highest’ pair of shoes I can tolerate heel-wise.
I don’t usually ‘do girlie’ but of course, the garment could be dressed up or down. I always feel like being a clerk from the ‘Ministry of Silly Walks’ when I wear high heels.
I digress slightly. I also used the Bella pattern as ‘backdrop’ for the waist. The back zipper proved handy during the tailoring procedure. I could pull the trousers up and down as I was adjusting the knot on the belt section. I was thus to say ‘carving it’ on myself, endlessly criss-crossing the two front panels (wrap section and leg are one only section) at waist level and tailoring them accordingly. Then I had enough to pull my trousers up and down like a maniac.
After the very last session of adjustments, I can see its flaws. there is still a problem at the groin section (still an excess of fabric around that area) and a little tension at the pockets level. I decided to include pockets make it more complicated than it already was! They are not very functional anyway [enough place for a handkerchief though so I could ‘cry 96 tears’ (only)]. I heavily used invisible stitching for final adjustments to keep the fold in place. I had to create an opening on the side (with snap fasteners) as the garment was too tight. I need to fix the problem at its basis: reaping the trousers off and redraft the pattern. Uhmmm…. From then on, I shall ponder over the intrinsic difference between the pleat and the wrap, control and chaos. Perhaps reading ‘The Fold’ by Gilou (the nickname I give to the belated Gilles Deleuze) will ‘in theory’ help me with my pattern redraft. Ok, ok …I wrap it up….and what about the ‘joie de vivre’, ‘franche rigolade’ and gaiety in all this? Week-end of economical doom on top of things….
If I knew how to hyperlink I would include a jukebox selection to my party outfit.So for ‘joie de vivre’ then, I guess it is best expressed in this Monty Pythonesque collage (credit to Terry Gilliam cartoons) where members creations are popping out like mushrooms :Epleskall Burberry inspired ‘Knot Dress’, Stitchywitchy ‘The Kate Jeans’, Anajan’s Bella trousers ‘Nautical by Nature’ and Reneebies ‘Red Blue jeans’ .
Material Notes
Cotton etc..
Photography and graphics by Hélène M.
Difficulty
Advanced
Categories
23 Comments
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Apr 19, 2012, 06.06 PMby MadeinAmandine
fantastic triptych ! thank you for inspiring !
Apr 2, 2012, 11.58 PMby raquel mf
Love it! I could’t have courage to try the PATTERN MAGIC knot on pants! Congratulations!
Nov 30, 2011, 02.12 PMby Mai-der
WOW! Incredible!
Oct 30, 2011, 08.22 AMby urbandon
these are great. Very nice.
Jun 23, 2011, 04.14 PMby ginasophia
you are incredibly talented. bravo for you persistence, it paid off with something truly beautiful
1 Reply
Jun 27, 2011, 01.30 PMby carottesauvage
Thanks for your sweet comment!
Mar 16, 2011, 07.46 PMby adrie00
Amazing.
Feb 22, 2011, 12.16 AMby kbuckfeen
it sounds like an unreal amount of work, but the final product- i don’t have words. okay, maybe i have words…like amazing and beautiful and i wish i owned them!!
Feb 8, 2011, 10.31 PMby saylavie
wow! so cool!!
Dec 5, 2010, 01.59 PMby iljalamalice
Carotte! those are really cool. :)
Nov 26, 2010, 08.34 AMby kana
Hurray for the pockets within the calculated design!! I love when a garment is constructed by pockets and not “pasted pockets”. Beautiful!!
Nov 24, 2010, 07.08 PMby stephiaffi
Love your pants! Your collage is great too :)
Nov 24, 2010, 09.13 AMby nikkishell
you are awesome!
Nov 23, 2010, 09.48 PMby alexus1325
I totally don’t see the flaws! All I can see is your ingenious construction, and MAJOR style!
Nov 23, 2010, 07.59 PMby reneebies
wow the knot is so awesome. perfectly goes with the top!
Nov 23, 2010, 04.08 PMby nidhi
Amazing trousers! I’m a big fan of your work!
Nov 23, 2010, 03.45 PMby seazoo
wowwoww…I stayed here for a while admiring and feasted my eyes on the beautiful trouser. From this series of trousers Triptych this is the one I love the most! and love your new hair style too! so cute :) ahhh that poket! surely great idea! This looks difficult. drafting pattern, sewing process… Really geat job!!! I am crazy about your creations ;)))
Nov 23, 2010, 03.06 PMby oonaballoona
how cool carotte. and your member filled mood board is fabulous (although i tried to watch “imaginarium of dr parnassus” last night and almost threw the cat at the TV). you are an architect with fabric!
Nov 23, 2010, 02.12 PMby bekaem
I really admire your categorical approach to tayloring and the time and dedication you put into it. I think a lot of people make things for the purpose of finding out how to make a particular item but your making always has a lot more to it. Not to say that these pants aren’t wearable though. (Although my favourite would be no1 of the series). I’d love to say that I’m planning to copy them, but realistically I’ll be too impatient or lazy – besides, also glad to hear that there are others out there who can’t wear/ won’t wear high heels.
Nov 23, 2010, 01.01 PMby ghainskom
Looks great on you and sounds like a lot of the work for the perfectionist in you. Makes me think of Burberry.
Nov 23, 2010, 12.40 PMby janul
Hi H., you look absolutely wonderful and I can´t believe your skills! Bravo!
Nov 23, 2010, 09.36 AMby anajan
Wow! You outdid yourself once again! Definitely my favorite from the Triptych trilogy. Be aware – I might steal your idea ;). I love the symbolics of your collage – Gabriele Chanel as a root of the inspiration, Audry as a treetop, few “flowers” on the side (feels great being a flower!) and the mighty hand holding Marylin – so poetic! I wish you luck on the competition!
Nov 23, 2010, 09.35 AMby verypurpleperson
Love! This is one of the things I really love but I can never be able to pull it off.
Nov 23, 2010, 09.25 AMby slinkykitten
Wow!! These are absolutely fantastic!