LINING / TOP PIECE
Stitch the back pleat, shoulder and side seams of the lining pieces. Press. Same seam numbers have to meet. Pin the pleat at its bottom edge. Apply sleeves.
Position the lining piece on the placket (seam number 10), right sides facing. Shoulder seams meet. Stitch. Trim allowances and press inside the lining. Put the lining piece inside the coat, wrong sides facing. (a)
Fold the bottom edge of the lining. Pin the edge onto the cuff. Do not enclose the sleeve. Pull out the seam allowances between fabric and lining. Stitch those edges together, right sides facing (b). Enclose the sleeve strap ©.
Push pieces back so that the wrong sides are facing. Press the allowances of the sleeve cuff inside the sleeve. Stitch the strap with a boxed-in “X’, enclosing the sleeve (d)
At the top piece, position the bottom edges of fabric and lining pieces together. Stitch. Seams and pleats meet.
Position the back skirt panels together, right sides facing. Stitch the back center seam. Press allowances apart.
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