Burda Style For people who sew

HEMLINE
Open the facings of the back slit. Turn the hemline to the inside and press (a). Sew the hemline by hand. Turn the facings of the slit inside again, then stitch onto the hemline (b).

SLEEVES / SLIT
Position the upper and under sleeves together, and pin the seam (seam 8) including the slit. Stitch the seam from the top to the slit sign. Secure seam ends. Keep the slit pinned. Cut into the corner of the allowance of the undersleeve, close to the stitch line (arrow) ©.

Above the cut line, press the allowances apart. Below the cut line, press the allowances into the upper sleeve. Turn the facing along the underlap (undersleeve), then pin and press. Along the slit edge, stitch the top edges of facing and underlap together, WITHOUT catching the sleeve (d)

To gather the curve of the sleeve, narrowly double stitch using basting stitches from * to *. Fold the sleeve lengthwise. Stitch the seams in the front of the sleeve (seam 9). Stitch the hemline of the sleeve (e).

APPLY THE SLEEVE
To gather the curve of the sleeve, tighten the bobbin threads slightly. Move the sleeve into the armhole, right fabric sides are facing. The cross lines 10 of upper sleeve and front piece have to meet. The cross line of the undersleeve has to meet the cross line of the side piece. The cross lines of the sleeve curve have to meet the shoulder seems. Distribute the eased width without creating puckers or pleats. Pin the sleeve on the wrong side and stitch. Press the allowances inside the sleeve. Apply shoulder pads and sew onto the allowances by hand.

Related Techniques

• Make Shoulder Pads
• Attach Jacket Shoulder Foundations

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