Burda Style For people who sew

COLLAR / LAPEL
Stitch the collar stands onto the top collar and under collar (seam 4), right sides facing. Trim allowances, snip in and press apart. Narrowly topstitch both sides (a).

Stitch the under collar, from the cross line (seam 5) to the corner, onto the front piece. In the same way, stitch the top collar onto the front facings (seam 7) (b). Image shows the under collar.
Snip into the corners (arrow) of the allowances of front piece and facings. Stitch close to the stitch line ©. Image shows the front piece.

From corner to corner, stitch the under collar onto the neckline. In the same way, stitch the top collar onto the facing. Snip into the allowances and press apart (d). Image shows under collar.

Pin the edge of the top collar onto the under collar, the right sides facing. The top collar will be slightly bigger. Stitch collar pieces together. Do not catch the seam allowances of the lapel. Snip in the allowances of the front pieces and the facings from the cross line to the stitch line (arrow) (e).

Turn the allowances. From the cross line, pin the facings onto the front edges. The lapel will be slightly bigger. Stitch edges together. Trim allowances, cut the corners at an angle. Trim the allowance along the hemline, just 1” (2 cm) before the end of the facing (f).

Turn the collar. Turn the facings to the inside. Pin the edges, then press. Keep the under collar and the front pieces curved along the FOLD LINE. Pin the pieces, using bias staying stitches to stabilize the fabric. Position the seam lines of the collar and neckline together using backstitches. Stitch the princess seams on the back (seam 2). Press allowances apart (g).

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