Burda Style For people who sew

SIDE SEAMS
Position the front and back pieces together, right sides facing. Pin the side seams (seam numbers 1/5) and stitch, enclosing the loops. Trim allowances, neaten and press to the side. Neaten all outer edges of the jacket using an overlock machine.

SLEEVES
Double stitch the curve of the sleeve from * to *, using basting stitches. Fold the sleeve lengthwise in half, right sides facing.

Pin SLEEVE SEAMS (seam number 3/7) and stitch. Trim allowances, neaten and press to the side.
Neaten the BOTTOM SLEEVE EDGE using an overlock machine.

APPLY SLEEVES
To gather the width of the sleeve curve, slightly tighten the bobbin threads.

Apply the sleeves onto the armhole, right sides facing. Pin.

4 points are important for the right fit:
The cross lines 4/8 of sleeve and front piece have to meet. The sleeve and side seams have to meet. The cross lines of the sleeve curve have to meet the shoulder seam. The gathered width has to be distributed in a way that doesn’t pucker or create pleats. Pin and stitch the seam line along the sleeve side. Trim allowances, neaten and press inside the sleeve.

SLIT FOR TIE BELT
Press fusible bias tape onto the front pieces, around the wrong side of the slit area. Work the slits onto the jacket such as button holes. Remove the fusible bias tape close to the stitches and trim.

TIE BELT
Position the belt pieces together, right sides facing. Stitch back center seam. Press allowances apart.

Fold the belt along the fold line, right sides facing. Stitch the edges together, leave an opening. Turn the belt inside out. Pin the edges and stitch narrowly, also stitch closing the opening. Pull the belt from the back through the loops. Then pull the ends of the belt through the slits to the inside.

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