Talea- Variation 2- Double Breasted Coat
Added Feb 4, 2008
New York, New Yo...
Place back sleeve pieces right sides facing onto the front sleeve pieces. Stitch. (a) Fold over and iron the seam allowances into the front sleeve pieces. Stitch front sleeve pieces along the seam, allowing 1.5 cm (about 0.59 inches). To maintain the shape of the sleeve, stitch from to dot symbol to dot symbol on both sides of the marked seam line with large stitches. Do not tighten the bottom thread yet. (b) Place the bottom latches between the horizontal lines onto the front sleeve pieces, pin to the seam allowances. Fold sleeves lengthwise, right side inside. Pin the bottom seams of the sleeves. Stitch. © Fold apart and iron the seam allowances. Fold over and iron the hem allowance to the inside and loosely sew by hand.
Pin sleeves right sides facing, first on the bottom of the arm line, the bottom sleeve and sidelines and the horizontal line 11 meet. Do not restrain the arm line or sleeves. (d) Then stick the shoulder marking (horizontal line) of the round sleeve base to the shoulder marking of the yokes. Now, tighten the bottom thread of the stitching lines until the sleeves fit in the arm line. Pin sleeves, distributing the width equally. (e) Try on the coat and test the positioning of the sleeves. Stitch in the sleeve going from the sleeve side, starting above the side seam. To make sure that the basting thread can be ripped easily, stitch close to the basting stitches. Place the seam allowances of the coat’s arm line into the sleeves.
Stitch the seams of the lining sleeves. Fold apart and iron the seam allowances. Pull lining into the sleeve, inside out. Sew the lining, folded over, onto the arm line base. Sew the bottom edge of the lining onto the hem allowance.
Pull apart the batching stitches at the front edges. Once again, place the trimmings flat, facing to the front. Fold over and iron the seam allowance and stitch from the right, allowing 1 ¼” (3 cm). Fold
the trimmings to the inside, sew to the hem allowance. Stitch the front edges and the upper edges
continuously until you reach the base of the collar, allowing ½” (1.2cm).
Push Buttons, Buttons
Sew the upper parts of the four push buttons onto the trimming of the right front edge, 1 ¼” (3 cm) from both the front and the upper edge. Space between the push buttons: 5” (13 cm). Sew the bottom part of the push buttons accordingly onto the right side of the left front edge.
Sew the large buttons above the spot where the push-buttons were sewn, on the right side of the right front edge, and onto the left back latch, make sure to catch in the right back latch. Sew the smaller buttons onto the shoulder and arm latches, sewing the latches onto the front pieces and the sleeves.