Added Feb 4, 2008
New York, New Yo...
Take piece # 9, the collar stand. This variation of the jacket does not have a lapel, so instead we are going to make the collar stand into a standing collar by increasing its width and lengthening it to fit across the entire new double-breasted center front. Since the front piece extends past the Center Front, the collar must be extended. To do this, begin by cutting the seam allowance off of the piece. Be sure to mark the appropriate shoulder notch for your size. Place this piece on a new piece of pattern paper. Extend the center front line of the neck opening, as shown in orange above. Make sure there is at least 5 inches of blank pattern paper to the right of this line. Fold the paper along this line.
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