Tailcoat

Added Feb 18, 2012

by katexxxxxx

Sittingbourne, U...

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Views

1488

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Description

Gentlemen’s evening tailcoat. This is a modern speed tailored garment in traditional evening style, for wearing at white tie events. It has somewhat theatrical styling, with wide lapels and higher sleeve heads than is usual. There is one external welt pocket and one internal pocket. The buttons are corded silk covered buttons.

The gentleman is large, with narrow sloping shoulders, so we drafted the pattern for him.

This is a Jolly Dicey project, jointly drafted and sewn by my partner Su and I.

Material Notes

The body of the coat is made from world’s finest 100% wool Barathea from Hainsworths, with lapels faced in wool satin. It is constructed using fusible hair canvas, cupro taffeta lining, and wool felt shoulder pads. The sleeves are lined with a silk and rayon mix twill satin.

Difficulty

Expert

Categories

For
Men
Garment Type
Coat/Capes
Style
Evening Wear
Material
Suiting, Wool

7 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • Missing

    Apr 19, 2013, 05.15 PMby cocco1234

    Wow that is beautiful !!! Lovely work .

    1 Reply
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      Apr 22, 2013, 01.04 AMby katexxxxxx

      Thank you. Great fun for us to do. :)

  • Img_0333_large

    Feb 27, 2012, 10.24 AMby sew4my3

    Absolutely gorgeous! What a work of art!

    1 Reply
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      Feb 27, 2012, 11.00 AMby katexxxxxx

      Thank you. It was a fun project. Need a teeny bit of adjusting on one shoulder to make it sit exactly right, but that will just be slipping in a second shoulder pad on that side to compensate for a Golf Shoulder on the other!

  • Me_pecks_large

    Feb 20, 2012, 10.53 PMby nessys

    Stunningly, perfectly tailored Darl (as always). I am sure the chap will look exceedingly dapper in this tailcoat. Beautiful.

    1 Reply
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      Feb 21, 2012, 12.13 AMby katexxxxxx

      He did look rather fine, even with a slightly catty T shirt under it! (He has 4 kitties)

      Thanks. love. :)

  • Dsc09595avatar_large

    Feb 20, 2012, 06.56 AMby Ralf Schmitz

    i wish i could sew like this! i am absolutely amazed! WOW!!

    1 Reply
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      Feb 20, 2012, 01.17 PMby katexxxxxx

      Thank you.

      It’s not so much the sewing… More the preparation, cutting, using the proper materials, having good quality cloth to work with, and a partner with a pernickety eye for detail!

      And a GOOD steam iron! ;)

  • Pc310016_large

    Feb 18, 2012, 11.34 PMby peaches2218

    I didn’t know such a thing as wool satin existed. I love when people know more than I do; it’s such a great way to learn new things.

    1 Reply
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      Feb 19, 2012, 07.43 AMby katexxxxxx

      It’s also known as ‘Venetian cloth’, and is usually made for things like high-end and bespoke evening coat lapels and collars.

      Too often these days the cheaper manufacturers use something like a poly Duchess satin, which is too shiny. I was lucky to get this piece. I used a chunk of it in my black and white caraco project.

  • File0012_10_large

    Feb 18, 2012, 11.03 PMby jennyrecorder

    Wow, I hope you charged him accordingly for a beautifully tailored, bespoke garment.

    1 Reply
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      Feb 19, 2012, 07.47 AMby katexxxxxx

      Thank you.

      Total cost, with all the fabrics, was over £700. Timeslips tell us that there was slightly over 50 hours of work involved. Hand tailored would have been more for the extra hours of work.

      Projects like this take about as much making as a wedding dress.

  • Patti_12-28-2011_large

    Feb 18, 2012, 06.09 PMby patti-r

    Totally Awesome and of course it is Beautifully Sewn!!!

    1 Reply
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