Burda Style For people who sew

On the front side pieces and the front center piece, staystitch the curved edges just inside the seamline. Clip the curved seam allowance on the center front piece to the staystitching. With the side piece on top, pin the side piece to the center front piece, spreading the clipped edge to fit. Make additional clips if necessary so that the seam will lie smoothly.
Baste. With clipped side up, stitch on the seamline, being careful to keep the underside smooth. Remove the basting and finger-press the seam open. Clip notches in the inward curve (front side piece) to remove fullness. Wherever possible stagger the position of the clips and notches. Close the seam and press over a tailor’s ham. Trim allowances, neaten and press toward the front center piece (a).

Sew the center back seam from the hem up to the bottom zipper mark with a regular stitch length, backstitch, then change to machine-basting and sew the zipper opening’s seam allowances together. Neaten allowances and press the seam open.

Extend the right-hand seam allowance and place the open zipper face down, aligning the zipper teeth along the seamline, with the top stop of the zipper positioned 3/4" (20mm) below neckline edge. Pin in place. Using a zipper foot, machine baste along the stitching guideline on the zipper tape. Close the zipper. Extend the remaining seam allowance and machine baste the unstitched zipper tape, from the bottom to the top, along the stitching guideline on the zipper tape.

Turn the garment right side up and spread it flat. Mark the stitching line with chalk or cellophane tape placed 1/4" (6mm) from center seam as a guide for straight stitching. To avoid rippled edges, topstitch from bottom to top on each side through all thicknesses. Use your machine’s zipper foot, which allows you to stitch close to the zipper teeth, and remove the seamline basting stitches once the zipper is inserted.

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