Added Jan 22, 2012
So many factors have conspired against me on this project, not the least – timing! The drive to make the fabric up collided with a brick wall of curtains, cushions and Xmas outfits for people other than immediate family! This meant I couldn’t put them off. So I finally got the chance (after Xmas) to get cracking, luckily all the fiddling witht he toiles had been done before the mad rush.
I had bought this grey wool with a small burgandy fleck on an impulse in the Autumn. I promised that I would get the jacket done this season, and made myself control my urge to purchase what was remaining on the roll, instead of exactly 1.5m. Of course I had no pattern in mind, I just had to have the wool! So, the pattern. It is a self drafted jacket, with simple details and no pockets. There was just not enough to do that. It was getting too simple though, so I thought I’d play with the sleeves. I had a burst of inspiration from the Elizabethan era, the way they have slashes to reveal a contrast fabric below. So I made a pleat down the centre of the sleeve (had to switch to a one-piece sleeve) and cut a contrast pleat back. Originally this was going to be burgandy, and I had thought of a velvet.. But it proved impossible to find the right colour within my time-scale, so I reverted to some plain black wool I had hiding in the cupboard. The pleat edges were hand sewn together at 8cm intervals so when there is movement in the arm the pleat opens and reveals the back below. The buttons are the remnants of a charity shop splurg earlier in the season. I lined the jacket with a suit lining from the Fancy Silk store in Birmingham, the perfect colour to match the burgandy flecks.
I am pretty happy with the jacket, the tailoring went smoothly, the wool handled beautifully and I had no issues with the pattern at all. I might make the next one either 5cm longer, or 5 cm shorter… just to see.
I have started to put the construction information on my blog and will complete it this week, if you’d like to see the insides of this jacket.
Wool shell and cupro lining
As an early special Black Friday promotion you can now enroll in the course ($80 value) for $49.99!
Sewing & Techniques
Learn how to use your bodice sloper to draft this popular collar style
What Burda Academy Course is Right for Your Sewing Style?
Pattern of the Week
This is a quintessential ladylike coat with turned down shawl collar and fit and flare silhouette.
We're taking a sneak peak at the upcoming fashion design course.
You must allow our "request for permission" request to login to Burdastyle with Facebook.