Burda Style For people who sew

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  Jan 21, 2013, 09.25 AMby katexxxxxx

  What you should be matching is the SEAM LINES and not the cut edges… Mark in you seam lines and pin the points where the princess two seam lines cross at the top and the bottom. EASE the convex curves onto the concave curves and put your pins in at right angles to the seam. In really deep curves you will need LOTS of close pins: possibly as close as half an inch apart.

  Sew the seam line slowly and carefully.

  I rarely need ease stitching, and don’t use it at all where the fabric may be marked. On fine fabrics and things like satin and silk taffeta, which mark easily, I use very fine pins like these: http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eh2FYSIKtA/TXkGKfSPp6I/AAAAAAAABtE/8n6suPUamo/s1600/Clover+Pin+Package.jpg They aee sold as patchwork pins because their fineness makes accuracy easy, but they are also fine enough not to mark silk.

  1 Reply

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    Jan 21, 2013, 12.10 PMby sewingfan1

    Thanks Kate. Some serious practicing going to take place tonight!

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  Jan 20, 2013, 01.39 PMby sewingfan1

  Thanks to you all. I’m going to have a practice on scrap fabric and try out all your suggestions to see which works best for me. I’m determined to work out how it’s done!!
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  Jan 19, 2013, 07.05 PMby hollowsnothorcruxes

  It also helps to sew the seam with concave side on top. The motion of the foot helps ease in the convex curve. Careful pinning also helps. This method also works for sleeves and yokes. Whichever side needs to be eased in goes on bottom. By doing this I’ve never had to gather a sleeve cap or princess seam before sewing it in. You might try practicing with some scrap fabric. Try both methods and see what you prefer. And then practice that method a few times until you’re comfortable using it. Then try it on your project. Practicing on scraps is a good habit, it’ll prevent a lot of frustration over screwing up a nice dress.
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  Jan 19, 2013, 05.55 PMby martinK

  is this the neckline? and a part of the sleev? than I think you have to spread the longer part of the sleev over regular over the shorter part. As a result the chest will be a modeled just a suggestion
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  Jan 19, 2013, 05.55 PMby sewsweetviolets

  Princess seams need to be eased into place. one side is always on a bias, the sewing line is not on grain, the larger your bust the more bias you will have. this means that the side that is on bias will stretch, one opting is in pattern making remove some of the bias side by making it shorter, usually this is done by slashing the pattern from the bust point to the side seam, but not through the side seam and overlapping the pattern piece.

  Since you already have the fabric cut out, make a set of three gathering stitches, by hand or machine depending on your skill and fabric. Make the first of the stitches on the side of front side portion of the seam, on the princess line, 1/16 of an inch towards the seam allowance, the second and third are best kept about 1/8 to 3/16 apart depending on how wide your allowance. Gently reduce the length of the princess line and pin it to the center front making sure the easing/reducing is not gather up and puckering and that it matches the cf piece. then sew with a basting stitch. If it is good them sew it up with a permanent stitch and remove your basting stitches.

  You may want to press you seam allowance before your pin it to the cf front as well, with a bit of steam if it is a wooly fabric.

  I hope this is clear enough for you, and that it helps.