Added Apr 18, 2011
Ithaca, New York...
This shirt is actually a remake of a shirt I made some time ago, one of my first blouse attempts. I loved the idea, but the first version suffered from a few issues that made it uncomfortable to wear, namely: too big in the shoulders and gaping neckline, not big enough in the waist so it was tight when I sat down, and I used crappy quality quilting cotton (terrible beginner’s mistake, I know) which made it stiff.
This new attempt is made from a bit of a frankenpattern, which combines the bodice of the JJ pattern, the sleeves of the Ute pattern, and a self-drafted collar. I started with a 40 bodice and did a FBA, adding to both the side and front panel to try to get that seam right over the bust. Since the piping attracts a lot of attention to the seam line, I wanted to make sure I got the placement right. In retrospect, I wish I’d done armhole princess seams, because I think that the shape would have been even more flattering with the white piping.
I was originally planning to modify the Ute collar, but after fiddling with it I decided to just draft my own. I really wanted to make sure that this shirt would end up being work appropriate (i.e., not too low cut), and I just wasn’t trusting that Burda neckline! Once again, this vintage sewing guide proved very helpful. The little trick about adding 1/8 inch to the neck seam to get a nice roll on the collar worked perfectly for me.
Comments on the fit are very welcome — I’m trying to develop some basic personalized patterns and sometimes it’s difficult to troubleshoot fitting issues on yourself!
More details on my blog.
Lightweight cotton, piping
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