Burda Style For people who sew

Description

This shirt is actually a remake of a shirt I made some time ago, one of my first blouse attempts. I loved the idea, but the first version suffered from a few issues that made it uncomfortable to wear, namely: too big in the shoulders and gaping neckline, not big enough in the waist so it was tight when I sat down, and I used crappy quality quilting cotton (terrible beginner’s mistake, I know) which made it stiff.

This new attempt is made from a bit of a frankenpattern, which combines the bodice of the JJ pattern, the sleeves of the Ute pattern, and a self-drafted collar. I started with a 40 bodice and did a FBA, adding to both the side and front panel to try to get that seam right over the bust. Since the piping attracts a lot of attention to the seam line, I wanted to make sure I got the placement right. In retrospect, I wish I’d done armhole princess seams, because I think that the shape would have been even more flattering with the white piping.

I was originally planning to modify the Ute collar, but after fiddling with it I decided to just draft my own. I really wanted to make sure that this shirt would end up being work appropriate (i.e., not too low cut), and I just wasn’t trusting that Burda neckline! Once again, this vintage sewing guide proved very helpful. The little trick about adding 1/8 inch to the neck seam to get a nice roll on the collar worked perfectly for me.

Comments on the fit are very welcome — I’m trying to develop some basic personalized patterns and sometimes it’s difficult to troubleshoot fitting issues on yourself!

More details on my blog.

Material Notes

Lightweight cotton, piping

Categories

Season

Spring

For

Women

Garment Type

Blouse

Style

Business

Material

Cotton