Added May 17, 2010
New York, New Yo...
Some of our favorite patterns from the past have gotten a makeover and have been customized for the BurdaStyle team. To begin with, today’s coat variation was created for myself (alisondahl), and is based off of our Nadine jacket. I love the Nadine jacket but the length wasn’t quite working for my me and the gathers seemed bulky for Spring. I wanted something I could wear over a dress to events that would cover up my limbs but remain light enough for warmer evenings.
From the Nadine pattern I eliminated a number of elements: The high waist seam, the front and back yokes, the front and back gathers, and the ruffles at the hem and sleeves. To make this variation there is some pattern drafting involved: You want to shave away a bit of width from the front and back pieces where gathers are marked (the original pattern has extra width added for these gathers) where the yoke gets attached. Make these sections the same width as the yoke and align. Trace a new pattern piece without including the yoke seams. Add a center back seam instead of cutting on the fold. This will help to achieve a nice fit.
Lengthening the coat to your desired fall is easy; just trace the pattern and from the waistline continue a line down to your desired length (you can really bell this shape out for a 60s mod flair). Length was also added to the sleeves, I wanted a 3/4 look. Also I added pockets (see tutorial below) as now there is room for them on the sides seams.
The collar remains the same a-symmetric shape. I spaced out the buttons more and made larger, covered buttons more suited for a long coat. I found this amazing polka dot silk at B&J Fabrics in Manhattan, it reminds me of Marni or Mui Mui… The lining is tan silk de chine.
The model is wearing BurdaStyle’s Lesley Circle Skirt. Top and shoes the stylist’s own.
Self: 3 1/4 yards (3m 6cm) Lining: 3 1/4 yards (3m 6cm)
How to Grade, Draft, Design, and Sew!
Go far afield in wrap dresses, detailed jackets, and comfy separates for fall.
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