Pleated Coat 04/2012
Added May 17, 2012
Stitch shoulder seams. Stitch side seams on upper and lower pieces. Press seam allowances open. Fold pleats in lower piece in direction of arrows and baste. Stitch upper unit to lower unit. Press seam allowances toward upper unit.
Work buttonhole in right front facing. Stitch shoulder seams of facing.
Bind inside facing edge with bias strip: Trim away seam allowance on inside facing edge. Pin bias strip to facing edge and stitch 1 cm (3/8 in) from edge. Fold strip over edge to inside and baste. Work from right side to topstitch close to binding edge.
Pin facing right sides together with coat. Stitch along front and neck edges. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing to inside. Press edges.
Unfold facings at hem. Bind edges of hem allowance. Press hem allowance to inside and sew in place by hand. Turn facings to inside again. Sew to hem allowance and to seams. Topstitch 1 cm (3/8 in) from front and neck edges.
Bind edges of hem allowances on sleeves. Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and sew in place by hand.
Set in sleeves matching up underarm point and top sleeve to shoulder seam.
Bind inside edge of pocket self- facings with bias strips, then press facings to inside. Press allowances on side and lower pocket edges to inside. Pin pockets to fronts, at abutting lines. Sew side and lower pocket edges in place, with invisible stitches, by hand.
Fold lapels to outside, on fold lines, and hold each in place with one cross stitch, approx. 1 cm (3/8 in) in size.