Added Dec 2, 2012
So I was browsing the local library and I was so excited to find Tomoko Nakamichi’s Pattern Magic on the shelf! It was the catalyst I needed to launch myself into exploring pattern-making and develop my understanding of garment design.
I fell in love with -‘The knot (musubu) dress’ and set about drafting the pattern as instructed in the book. The book promises to “create a classic garment merely by draping the bodice fabric in the way you want and then tying a dramatic bow.” The diagrams and explanations are straight-forward and easy to follow. The pattern drafting and manipulation are based on basic slopers and the focus of the book is to explain the construction of a pattern. I lengthened the hemline of the dress as I wanted it to finish just on the knee. The book does not elaborate on how to sew or finish the garment. I decided to draft an all-in-one facing for the neckline and armscye.
I chose an embroidered twill because I wanted a stiff, heavy fabric to allow the knotted bow to hold its shape and the embroidery to add some interest. The colour is somewhere between navy and black – the tag states the colour as ‘eclipse.’ The front of the skirt has an inverted pleat and the back has a pleat on each side. I lengthened the back pleats so the dress was more fitted around the lumbar spine. I used an invisible zipper and hook and eye for the back closure because I wanted to minimise bulk. I finished the neckline and armscye with an all-in-one facing.
I’m very happy with this dress and I can’t wait to try some of the other ‘Tying a Bow’ variations outlined in this book! If only I didn’t have to return the book to the library :(
Embroidered twill (eclipse) 120cm wide ($6.00/metre, Spotlight clearance fabrics); interfacing; 56 cm invisible zipper (navy); hook and eye (from the op-shop); thread;
paper, ruler and French curve for drafting the pattern.
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