Inset Pleats
Press Insets (pattern piece 3) along ‘Fold’ lines, towards the center on the face side. Press hem (1 1/4") to wrong side. Now, sew Inset to Front (pattern piece 1), face to face, until mark. Fold dart as marked; it aligns with the seam of the inset. Sew dart.
Repeat these steps on Back inset (pattern piece 4) and Back (pattern piece 2), except the dart on the back is a released tuck. Sew until mark lines.
Lastly, narrowly topstitch the pleats. This way your pleats will stay nice and crisp.
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