Added Mar 30, 2010
Sydney (Inner We...
neo noir inspired jacket (with a twist of frou)
Raglan sleeves have been catching my eye. The Jorinde pattern for the Stitches & Craft Show competition with BurdaStyle and tessuti provided an opportunity to work with them. Playing on the shape of original Jorinde shoulder panels, I continue the lines down each sleeve and added piping lines to front and back sections. The contrast velvet shouder draws attention to the raglan shape.
Pattern variation notes attached. Use the Jorinde pattern as your base.
The attached sketch and muslin show piping running down each arm. However, the thick and slippery velvet piping proved difficult to sew – very difficult to sew. Particularly, on curved seams. All the basteing in the world couldn’t help me. After spending four-and-a-half hours on two seams, I was forced to come up with a ‘Plan B’. This substituted the piping on the sleeves with a contrast velvet panel.
Plan ‘A’ techniques
This version worked with the muslin, and would be possible with piping of a ‘normal’ thickness. In this version the front piping can be tucked to the side of the front ‘bound’ pockets (see muslin and nikkishell how to). The normal thickness will allow you to line the garment as described in the Jorinde original.
Plan ‘B’ techniques
The thick velvet defied my original design and muslin. The pockets are a kind of hybrid: upper lip is a bound pocket and the bottom lip is the piping from the front panel wrapped around. Also, the velvet piping made the seams extremely thick and could not be lined as normal so they are finished with Hong Kong seams instead. I used the pink cotton fabric (from tessuti, of course) that I bought to use as lining to make bias binding instead, that is needed the Hong Kong seams.
This is my first jacket.
black cotton velvet (I wish you could feel it); black cotton satin (with a little poly for stretch and shine); pink cotton lining; cord for homemade piping from the luxurious Tessuti velvet
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