Burda Style For people who sew
Description
neo noir inspired jacket (with a twist of frou)
Raglan sleeves have been catching my eye. The Jorinde pattern for the Stitches & Craft Show competition with BurdaStyle and tessuti provided an opportunity to work with them. Playing on the shape of original Jorinde shoulder panels, I continue the lines down each sleeve and added piping lines to front and back sections. The contrast velvet shouder draws attention to the raglan shape.
Pattern variation notes attached. Use the Jorinde pattern as your base.
The attached sketch and muslin show piping running down each arm. However, the thick and slippery velvet piping proved difficult to sew – very difficult to sew. Particularly, on curved seams. All the basteing in the world couldn’t help me. After spending four-and-a-half hours on two seams, I was forced to come up with a ‘Plan B’. This substituted the piping on the sleeves with a contrast velvet panel.
Plan ‘A’ techniques
This version worked with the muslin, and would be possible with piping of a ‘normal’ thickness. In this version the front piping can be tucked to the side of the front ‘bound’ pockets (see muslin and nikkishell how to). The normal thickness will allow you to line the garment as described in the Jorinde original.
Plan ‘B’ techniques
The thick velvet defied my original design and muslin. The pockets are a kind of hybrid: upper lip is a bound pocket and the bottom lip is the piping from the front panel wrapped around. Also, the velvet piping made the seams extremely thick and could not be lined as normal so they are finished with Hong Kong seams instead. I used the pink cotton fabric (from tessuti, of course) that I bought to use as lining to make bias binding instead, that is needed the Hong Kong seams.
This is my first jacket.
Material Notes
black cotton velvet (I wish you could feel it); black cotton satin (with a little poly for stretch and shine); pink cotton lining; cord for homemade piping from the luxurious Tessuti velvet
Difficulty
Advanced
Related Techniques
Categories
Credits
- fabric (satin, velvet and lining)
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Patterns for this Project
This project is based on
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Jorinde
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Mar 23, 2013, 06.49 AMby joelleharris
Wow, quite an ambitious project, and lovely result. I hope you have enjoyed wearing it too.
Jan 31, 2011, 12.49 AMby maxathon
WOW! that is AMAZING! definately releases trend setting environment >< The whole outfit is stunning and very inspirational!
1 Reply
Feb 6, 2011, 10.34 AMby Passiona Cottee
Thanks, Maxathon!
Sep 19, 2010, 01.10 PMby alexphil
amazing, I wanted to try and make a jacket too, this is a great inspiration!
May 5, 2010, 09.25 AMby ichigogirl
Oh wow, it’s amazing, I really like it (how could I have not seen it until now…?).
Apr 16, 2010, 11.29 AMby lisilvia
Wo, I may lead another fashion trend!
1 Reply
Apr 16, 2010, 12.38 PMby Passiona Cottee
Hi li.silvai!
I see you’ve just joined BurdaStyle today. Welcome. I hope you enjoy it here!
Thanks for your comment. _
Apr 8, 2010, 09.55 PMby sewjosa
Awesome jacket! And your first jacket at that!
1 Reply
Apr 16, 2010, 12.36 PMby Passiona Cottee
Hi Sewjosa… you’re in Sydney, too? Cool! I must recommend tessuti, if you haven’t been there already – Chatswood, City, Surry Hills. Much inspiration to be had there.
Thank you for your kind words!
Apr 8, 2010, 05.42 PMby hiba biba
This is amazing! i love it
thank you
1 Reply
Apr 16, 2010, 12.32 PMby Passiona Cottee
Thank you hiba biba. I am looking forward to seeing what the first project you post on BurdaStyle will be ;)
Apr 7, 2010, 10.41 PMby oonaballoona
this is your first jacket?!
really cool, so streamlined. LOVE the sleeves & sleeve length!
1 Reply
Apr 16, 2010, 12.31 PMby Passiona Cottee
oh, hi oonaballoona! Yes, it’s my first… And I’ve just sent it off to Melbourne for the Show. fingers-crossed
Congratulations, on being featured in Gedwoods top 10! He says some great things about you. Oh, and I hope you get that dress form, too!
Apr 6, 2010, 11.20 PMby marinaglory
This is amazing! The lines are beautiful- and i love the hot pink inside :) You have my vote; good luck in the competition!
1 Reply
Apr 7, 2010, 10.58 AMby Passiona Cottee
Thank you, Marina!
Apr 4, 2010, 03.26 PMby lizah
GORGEROUS!!!
Apr 4, 2010, 04.25 AMby knt831
Gorgeous!! You have mad skills. You’ll definitely have my vote!
1 Reply
Apr 7, 2010, 11.05 AMby Passiona Cottee
“mad skills”, what a great compliment. I love it. Thank you.
I feel I learnt most of them in the process of making this.
Apr 3, 2010, 01.32 PMby peaudane
Your jacket is fantastic! Wow!
1 Reply
Apr 7, 2010, 11.08 AMby Passiona Cottee
I am glad you like it. Thank you.
Apr 3, 2010, 08.50 AMby julietta
I can’t believe that this is your first jacket. You have done such a great job modifying the pattern and the combination of materials you have chosen is really difficult. Love your jacket and good luck with the competition!
1 Reply
Apr 3, 2010, 10.51 AMby Passiona Cottee
oh, Julietta. If only I had discussed the fabric choice with you before I started! You are right, the velvet and satin combo is testing. And I ended up with a different jacket to the one in my muslin as a result. My grandma wants me to wear the muslin out
:D
I just saw your ‘make a babydoll from Lydia’. Very clear instructions. I am honoured you think my modification is alright!
Apr 3, 2010, 01.29 AMby nessys
You finished it!! And it look fabulous! I have always been a fan of velvet and satin together and your jacket looks lovely – well worth the effort Darl!!! I love the eye catching pink cotton that peaks out from the pocket – that is really cool, the Hong Kong seams are to die for and the sleeve heads are really elegant.!! Well done!
2 Replies
Apr 3, 2010, 05.52 AMby Passiona Cottee
I am literally exhausted after the short turn-around on this one. Your comments have truly made my day.
Apr 6, 2010, 08.39 AMby nessys
Darl – you are such an inspiration to me – I wish I had 1/10 of your energy and drive (both physical and creative!) Between this project, the petal jacket and the cut-a-rug skirt I don’t know how you do it! You never fail to impress! xxxx