Need some help on a toile!

Added Apr 26, 2014

by Carien Dolittle

Groningen, Nethe...

2012-03-06_23_57_24_thumb

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I just finished my toile for a pattern from Knipmode 03/2014 (dutch magazine). I have never made a jacket before so I need to take this slow and think about the steps I’m going to take. I have some issues with the toile and hope that I can get some help from Burdastylers :) (please don’t pay attention to the way I’ve put in the sleeves and collar..whoops. )

- As you can see there are some pleats in the front side panel. I did a full bust adjustment to my measurements but the upper part of the side panel seems too big. The princess seam lies nicely on the apex of the bust though. Do you know how to adjust this?
- Another problem is pleating in the back, towards the armpits. Or is this extra space meant for some moving space?
- I did not put in shoulder pads yet but think the seam line extends too much over the shoulder. Again I don’t know if this is meant to be because of the shoulder pads. Any suggestions?

Thank you very much for reading and maybe some advice!

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  • Screenshot2_large

    May 2, 2014, 06.34 PMby Rianne2

    Veel succes! Is het jasje inmiddels af? Ik ben ook bezig met mijn eerste blazer, best lasig!

    1 Reply
    • 2012-03-06_23_57_24_large

      May 5, 2014, 03.51 PMby Carien Dolittle

      Ik ben bezig met mijn tweede toile.. Het patroon bevat volgens mij ook een paar fouten wat het allemaal niet makkelijker maakt. Maar hij zit dit keer wel beter!
      Wat voor blazer maak je?

  • Rtyrsty_large

    May 2, 2014, 12.54 PMby nadia r

    Looks great

  • Mtf_mhmxw_101_large

    Apr 28, 2014, 02.11 PMby yenny lee

    I love how u make the blazer :) btw, why dont u try to add the pad first then revise the cupnate part? And i agree with deanna as i see the shoulder size a bit big :) cant wait for your final result :)

    2 Replies
    • 2012-03-06_23_57_24_large

      Apr 28, 2014, 04.35 PMby Carien Dolittle

      I’ve just started making my second muslin! If this doesn’t work maaaybe I’ll make a third muslin… Otherwise maybe an easier project!

    • Mtf_mhmxw_101_large

      Apr 28, 2014, 05.03 PMby yenny lee

      Hahahha good luck for your sewing dear. Or if there is someone who sew man blazer, go try ask them cos they are usually expert in blazer :)

  • Iphone_pictures_037_large

    Apr 27, 2014, 05.26 AMby Deanna31

    Hi Carien, I’m afraid that they are all tricky adjustments. The whole top part looks a bit big actually. When finding the right size its best to make sure the shoulder fits and then adjust the rest. What I would do (even though its a bit of a pain) is to pick a smaller size for the top of the jacket and keep the lower part of the pattern you have there and stick them together. I think In the long run it will fit better then just altering it

    1 Reply
    • 2012-03-06_23_57_24_large

      Apr 27, 2014, 10.27 AMby Carien Dolittle

      Hi Deanne, thank you for your helpful advice again :) I think I will just make the pattern without the full bust adjustment and look at the results. I think that maybe the problem is that I have a narrow upper chest compared to the bust. I have seen some pictures on how to adjust for this problem. But first I will just follow your advice and make a new toile!

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