Darts
Stitch darts at the top of the right and left sleeve according to the drawing. Secure the seam ends through backstitches. Knot the threads. Press the darts (a).
Pleat
Fold the pleat at the right front piece in such a way that right fabric sides are facing, topstitch approximately 1“ (2.5 cm) wide. Secure seam ends (b).
Thread loop
Apply a thread loop for the tie-belt at the inside of the right front piece (above the waistline). Pull the separate tie-belt through the opening under the center back piece, the ends overlap in same length. Stitch the strap next to the opening on the allowances of the inner seams. Pull the tie-belt of the left front piece (underlap) through the placket to the outside, pull through the thread loop. Tie the right and left strap with the back strap at the side.
Sew the tops of the snap buttons by hand on the inside of the right front piece and on the outer corner of the left front piece, respectively. Pin the right front piece on the left front piece, the centers meet. Then mark the placement spots for the snap button bases. Sew the base pieces by hand ©.
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