Added Aug 10, 2011
Auckland, New Ze...
This is the jacket I made following Sherry’s RTW Coat Sewalong, which I really enjoyed – I learned so much! The sewalong started in April, but due to deadlines and conferences etc, my jacket took ages to finish. Also, as this is my first ever jacket, I set the sleeves 4 times, put the shoulder pads in wrong twice, finished bagging the hem then decided I wanted to change the pads AGAIN… But at last it’s done!
I loved the Stella pattern on sight, but I struggled to find matching fabric that I liked for the trim on the centre front sections. Then one night, as I was puzzling over the problem while trying to fall asleep, I had a brain wave – what I love about the Burda example is the texture difference between the body of the jacket and the trim. So all I needed was a bit of texture! I’ve crocheted for much longer than I’ve sewed, so a crochet lace was my obvious choice.
After experimenting with a few types of crochet cotton, I settled on the DMC perle, which has a nice sheen to it. The leaf-like lacy pattern I found on that fabulous site, Antique Pattern Library.org. It’s from the book ‘Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions’ (subtitle ‘A Collection of Beautiful and Useful Patterns’!), by Eliza A. Taylor, published in Boston by the Priscilla Publishing Company in 1915. The pattern is simply called ‘Edging’ with the picture ‘Figure 53’ on p.20 and the pattern on p.17. I left off the scallops. The pattern is a kind of simple fillet crochet, and worked up quite quickly. Once I had long enough sections, I blocked them to the curved shape of the jacket front. I sewed the lace to the jacket by hand, using about seven rows of stitching for each panel so that it lies really flat and smooth. The button loop is simply the same perle cotton overcast using buttonhole stitch.
The Stella pattern is relatively simple – I should have taken a bit more trouble with my toile, but overall the fit is ok. I found I had to shorten the sleeve cap about 1.5cm, and I also took the sleeves in 1cm at each seam, because with my rather light woollen fabric they tended to flap. I also lowered the placement of the button. Following Sherry’s directions I drafted lining pattern pieces for the whole jacket, so it is fully lined with a gorgeous rayon lining.
The jacket took so long that I nearly missed the winter here in NZ – but hopefully we’ll still have a few cold snaps in the spring!
a beautiful Donna Karan pure wool suiting – on second thoughts I should have used plain not pinstripe, with the lace finish, but I still like it…
DMC perle cotton size 8, colour 413
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