Burda Style For people who sew
Description
This is the jacket I made following Sherry’s RTW Coat Sewalong, which I really enjoyed – I learned so much! The sewalong started in April, but due to deadlines and conferences etc, my jacket took ages to finish. Also, as this is my first ever jacket, I set the sleeves 4 times, put the shoulder pads in wrong twice, finished bagging the hem then decided I wanted to change the pads AGAIN… But at last it’s done!
I loved the Stella pattern on sight, but I struggled to find matching fabric that I liked for the trim on the centre front sections. Then one night, as I was puzzling over the problem while trying to fall asleep, I had a brain wave – what I love about the Burda example is the texture difference between the body of the jacket and the trim. So all I needed was a bit of texture! I’ve crocheted for much longer than I’ve sewed, so a crochet lace was my obvious choice.
After experimenting with a few types of crochet cotton, I settled on the DMC perle, which has a nice sheen to it. The leaf-like lacy pattern I found on that fabulous site, Antique Pattern Library.org. It’s from the book ‘Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions’ (subtitle ‘A Collection of Beautiful and Useful Patterns’!), by Eliza A. Taylor, published in Boston by the Priscilla Publishing Company in 1915. The pattern is simply called ‘Edging’ with the picture ‘Figure 53’ on p.20 and the pattern on p.17. I left off the scallops. The pattern is a kind of simple fillet crochet, and worked up quite quickly. Once I had long enough sections, I blocked them to the curved shape of the jacket front. I sewed the lace to the jacket by hand, using about seven rows of stitching for each panel so that it lies really flat and smooth. The button loop is simply the same perle cotton overcast using buttonhole stitch.
The Stella pattern is relatively simple – I should have taken a bit more trouble with my toile, but overall the fit is ok. I found I had to shorten the sleeve cap about 1.5cm, and I also took the sleeves in 1cm at each seam, because with my rather light woollen fabric they tended to flap. I also lowered the placement of the button. Following Sherry’s directions I drafted lining pattern pieces for the whole jacket, so it is fully lined with a gorgeous rayon lining.
The jacket took so long that I nearly missed the winter here in NZ – but hopefully we’ll still have a few cold snaps in the spring!
Material Notes
a beautiful Donna Karan pure wool suiting – on second thoughts I should have used plain not pinstripe, with the lace finish, but I still like it…
rayon lining
DMC perle cotton size 8, colour 413
Difficulty
Intermediate
Categories
- Season
- Spring, Fall, Winter
- For
- Women
- Garment Type
- Jacket/Blazer
- Style
- Classic, Casual, Preppy, Romantic
- Material
- Rayon, Suiting, Wool
Credits
- The RTW Sewalong
http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2011/03/who-wants-to-do-tailoring-sewalong.html
- Antique Pattern Library
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Jan 14, 2013, 10.39 PMby cur-jargon
GLORIOUS. What a gift that you gave yourself. The texture is jaw-dropping lovely. YOU MADE THAT!?! Amazing!
Oct 10, 2012, 01.16 AMby Karen Mitzel
Well done! Very inspiring!
Apr 23, 2012, 08.56 AMby Glenville Hughes
Love your Stella Jacket,grey does not do anything for me but i can see itin loads of colours methinks. Glenville
Oct 28, 2011, 12.11 AMby Lauriänn
I hardly believe you are novice!!! I like the crochet it is well put!!! ;-)
Sep 19, 2011, 09.51 AMby nishavinod2009
its turned out really well! very well done, the fit is also very good.
Sep 14, 2011, 01.20 AMby LittleLozzie
This is such a cool way to use a crochet trim- really modern and chic! Great job!
Sep 10, 2011, 09.59 AMby Denim Skirts Etc
This is fabulous. I was admiring the close up of the trim and then read you made it yourself! Wow indeed.
1 Reply
Sep 10, 2011, 08.39 PMby MientjiB
Thank you :-) It was great fun combining crochet with sewing :-)
Sep 6, 2011, 02.54 AMby heisk
Wowza! This is gorgeous and the crocheting is simply stunning:)
1 Reply
Sep 6, 2011, 03.52 AMby MientjiB
Thank you :-)
Sep 1, 2011, 08.44 PMby sigrid
love your details on this.
1 Reply
Sep 6, 2011, 03.52 AMby MientjiB
Thanks!
Aug 30, 2011, 11.03 PMby fruzsi
Such an amazing jacket! It is so beautiful, and the crochet trim…wow! Very well done!
1 Reply
Aug 31, 2011, 12.30 AMby MientjiB
Thank you! :-)
Aug 22, 2011, 05.49 AMby red-lia
Wow! You did some amazing work here. You can’t beat the combination of self sewing AND crochet/knitting – nobody else will ever have something quite like this!
1 Reply
Aug 22, 2011, 08.12 PMby MientjiB
Thank you!!
Aug 14, 2011, 11.57 PMby Ellen S
Really amazing jacket. The crochet trim gives makes it extra special. I just discovered the antique pattern library myself so its exciting a pattern that you found there.
1 Reply
Aug 15, 2011, 01.53 AMby MientjiB
It is a most amazing resource! I can spend hours (too many!) browsing through the patterns and getting ideas.
Aug 14, 2011, 09.40 AMby kaitui-kiwi
I LOVE the crochet trim, beautiful! The stellar pattern is great and I love mine, I can’t believe more people haven’t made it up! Your fit is excellent, great job and I’m glad I’m not the only one who dreams of sewing and wakes up with fresh inspiration, hehe xx
1 Reply
Aug 14, 2011, 11.41 PMby MientjiB
I saw and admired your jacket before I started mine :-) I also wonder that more people haven’t tried it – without lapels etc it’s such an easy jacket pattern.
Aug 12, 2011, 08.21 AMby poppykettle
Totally gorgeous and so well constructed. A jacket to be worn proudly!
Aug 12, 2011, 07.44 AMby MientjiB
Thank you all for your kind words! It’s a great encouragement to keep sewing :-)
Aug 12, 2011, 05.14 AMby smallone
this is very special…just love the combo the crochet overlay is so elegant and understated…beatiful one of a kind piece you’ve made
Aug 11, 2011, 10.11 AMby ttnora
Wow, it’s so gorgeous. I really like with this lace. Yes, it is a typical French style jacket. ;-)
Aug 10, 2011, 08.58 PMby rcolleen
wow, this is absolutely stunning!!!!! The fit /tailoring is excellent. Beautiful work!
Aug 10, 2011, 08.13 AMby apfelbluete
Wonderfull Jacket!!!Great job!
Aug 10, 2011, 07.13 AMby ghainskom
Brilliant!