Burda Style For people who sew
Moto Jacket (aka Saffron-lined Larissa)
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2772
Description
Well, here it is: my black wool moto jacket lined with iridescent saffron-colored silk dupioni. This was made from the “Larissa” pattern, obtained from Burdastyle online at a very reasonable $5.00 USD (no tax). (PLEASE SOMEBODY TELL ME HOW TO ATTACH THIS TO THE PATTERN… I CAN’T SEEM TO GET IT TO WORK!!!)
The jacket design features a full lining, interfaced collar and lapels, topstitching, five zippers (two for pockets, two for sleeves, and one for closure), a fitted, snapped waistband, shoulder tabs, two-piece sleeves, side pieces, and back pleats. It should be noted that these last three design features – two-piece sleeves, side pieces, and back pleats – are a measure of a quality pattern and this was definitely well-designed.
I added an interlining of warm & natural organic cotton batting, double interfacing on lapels and collar, sleeve heads, and shoulder pads. I also chose to omit the snap/tabs on the back of the coat because, alas, I have too much junk in my trunk. That much detailing near my bum would only draw more attention to it and a short jacket at my waistline is enough to make me a little self-conscious as it is!
Because the pattern only went up to a size 42 and I measured nearer to a size 44, I had to size it up. This was my first attempt at sizing up a pattern and it happened to end up working very well. Like anything else, patience is required and careful, regular measuring. A design ruler would have helped, but I didn’t have mine yet and so I managed it with a regular ruler and eyeballed the curves to the best of my ability. I traced the pattern out onto tracing paper and cut it out.
One omission in the pattern that would have really helped with the collar construction was including the roll line. The roll line for a collar or lapel is just as it sounds – where the roll will be. Good tailoring requires that this line be treated to some interfacing but I couldn’t manage it because I didn’t know where the roll line was. While my collars look good, I didn’t master the “turn of the cloth” that I read about as being the mark of a well-tailored garment. Nevertheless, I’m pleased – very pleased – with how this jacket turned out. I learned some very valuable lessons that I’ll be able to apply in my future projects. The most important of these are 1) that patience pays off; and 2) that hand stitching may take longer, but often it looks better.
I have posted instructions for two of the techniques I used to complete the jacket on my blog: how to insert a perfectly topstitched zipper and how to quilt an interlining for a jacket.
Material Notes
Black Wool Coating facing; Silk Dupioni lining; warm & natural batting interlining; fusible interfacing; five metal zippers; heavy duty thread; heavy duty snaps
Difficulty
Advanced
Categories
Credits
- Larissa Jacket
12 Comments
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Feb 16, 2010, 06.18 PMby amibambini
This is amazing! I just bought some lovely checked wool for my attempt at the Larissa, I’ve never done a jacket before and was a little daunted so went back to see how other had gone with it. Batting huh? I was wondering about that. The wool I have is kinda medium weight, and I was thinking I want my jacket to be quite toasty (it is still FREEZING here in London), I will have to check out your quilting how too. Would you recommend putting in shoulder pads? Anyways.. your coat looks great and the timing of it being posted is perfect! Thanks. a x
Feb 10, 2010, 10.54 PMby minnieburton
This jacket is fabulous! Well done! I am about to start making mine in some mad cat tapestry fabric :P I have never made a jacket before, had you? Did you make the jacket longer in the body than the pattern?
Thnx
Laura (UK)
Feb 8, 2010, 05.30 PMby smallone
wow! Such nice work… love you adding of interlining, looks like you quilted it too…such patience…such a fabulous end result!!
Feb 7, 2010, 06.47 PMby chocolatefoxdesigns
ive bveen searching 4 a jacket pattern like this, imma give it a go drafting my pwn pattern if there no luck i may be buying it thank you 4 posting!
Feb 7, 2010, 02.19 PMby almatinka
Wow! What a great workmanship – the work you did is impeccable (in my opinion), the fit is great and the jacket looks very well on you!!! Congratulations!!!
Feb 6, 2010, 08.02 AMby sarsaparilla
Great jacket! I’ve had my eye on the Larissa pattern for ages, and I think you’ve just convinced me to try it!
Feb 5, 2010, 08.49 PMby lizah
love it!
Feb 5, 2010, 07.43 PMby Lucha Suarez
This is amazing! I give you major props, because I am so afraid to make a jacket. Yours may just inspire me enough to build up the guts to do it though!
Feb 5, 2010, 02.51 PMby wzrdreams
EXCELLENT job! Obviously you have put a lot of attention to detail and meticulous sewing into this badass jacket. I love the contrast between the black wool and the gold (?) zippers and the snaps, and from your pictures I can tell that your seams (hand and machine) are very precise. This pattern has been on my maybe list since the Motorcycle Jacket is so hot right now (I’m trying to decide between Larissa and the Vogue Montana version). Thank you for all of your notes!
1 Reply
Feb 5, 2010, 02.52 PMby wzrdreams
PS. I think the pattern link is at the bottom of the project input page. If you “edit” your project scroll down to the bottom. When you find the correct input box just type “Larissa” slowly and the option should pop up – and then click on it.
Feb 5, 2010, 12.15 PMby oddoneout
Really love this! I have been wanting to make the Larissa for ages, but its so daunting to look at… :S. Congrats!
Feb 5, 2010, 09.17 AMby teasecloset
That’s truly awesome!! Maybe one day I’ll get to that level but in the meantime I will just applaud you!!
Feb 5, 2010, 04.22 AMby nettie
That seriously kicks ass!! I love it! Your up-sizing worked out perfectly. Excellent job!