Added Feb 5, 2010
Well, here it is: my black wool moto jacket lined with iridescent saffron-colored silk dupioni. This was made from the “Larissa” pattern, obtained from Burdastyle online at a very reasonable $5.00 USD (no tax). (PLEASE SOMEBODY TELL ME HOW TO ATTACH THIS TO THE PATTERN… I CAN’T SEEM TO GET IT TO WORK!!!)
The jacket design features a full lining, interfaced collar and lapels, topstitching, five zippers (two for pockets, two for sleeves, and one for closure), a fitted, snapped waistband, shoulder tabs, two-piece sleeves, side pieces, and back pleats. It should be noted that these last three design features – two-piece sleeves, side pieces, and back pleats – are a measure of a quality pattern and this was definitely well-designed.
I added an interlining of warm & natural organic cotton batting, double interfacing on lapels and collar, sleeve heads, and shoulder pads. I also chose to omit the snap/tabs on the back of the coat because, alas, I have too much junk in my trunk. That much detailing near my bum would only draw more attention to it and a short jacket at my waistline is enough to make me a little self-conscious as it is!
Because the pattern only went up to a size 42 and I measured nearer to a size 44, I had to size it up. This was my first attempt at sizing up a pattern and it happened to end up working very well. Like anything else, patience is required and careful, regular measuring. A design ruler would have helped, but I didn’t have mine yet and so I managed it with a regular ruler and eyeballed the curves to the best of my ability. I traced the pattern out onto tracing paper and cut it out.
One omission in the pattern that would have really helped with the collar construction was including the roll line. The roll line for a collar or lapel is just as it sounds – where the roll will be. Good tailoring requires that this line be treated to some interfacing but I couldn’t manage it because I didn’t know where the roll line was. While my collars look good, I didn’t master the “turn of the cloth” that I read about as being the mark of a well-tailored garment. Nevertheless, I’m pleased – very pleased – with how this jacket turned out. I learned some very valuable lessons that I’ll be able to apply in my future projects. The most important of these are 1) that patience pays off; and 2) that hand stitching may take longer, but often it looks better.
Black Wool Coating facing; Silk Dupioni lining; warm & natural batting interlining; fusible interfacing; five metal zippers; heavy duty thread; heavy duty snaps
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