Burda Style For people who sew
Description
This is my second time making this pattern. The first one fell apart because I only pinked the seam allowances….. just so you know, pinking is NOT a finishing technique I would recommend. Now that I have a serger I decided to give this another go.
Likes: the fabric! Lemon yellow 100% cotton shirting fabric from MOOD… I think it was $10 a yard and I got 1-2 yards (can’t remember at the moment, but I have a sizeable remnant). I love yellow so at the moment I am pretty happy regardless of some obvious issues:
Dislikes: I don’t like the large oddly shaped front facing. Since the facing is interfaced it is completely visible through the shirting fabric, meaning that I HAVE to wear an undershirt which is so not the point here. Also, the back is long directly across upper back… see how it bunches. (Is this what everyone over on pattern review refers to as a “sway back”? I’ve never heard that phrase used in a fitting or in school – anyone?) And my least favorite thing about this is that the pattern is NOT NESTED, so it’s not really possible to blending between sizes.
As far as my workmanship goes; there is some puckering over the bust curves, and I really should have added another button at the bottom since the last one is almost 2 inches over my jeans waistband. The hip is a little snug on me so this makes the front scissor out. I also somehow managed to take unequal hem allowances at the CF so the bottoms are not quite the same length; they’re about 1/8th off which bugs me. AND last but not least the 4th button placement is wonky and needs to be re-sewn.Hindsight being 20/20: I would recommend drastically reducing the front facing. I would say make it a regular button front shirt placket about 1.25 – 1.5” wide. I would add a 7th button at the bottom and for my personal fit I’d add ¼” to the front & back side seams at the bottom hem and blend to waist.
Material Notes
100% cotton shirting (Mood), 6 plastic 1/2" buttons (Pacific Trim)
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Apr 8, 2010, 01.53 AMby violaisabelle
You have a lovely blouse there. A little more work on the fitting and you will have a beautifully fitting blouse.
Sway back? Maybe, but it’s hard to tell from these photographs.
The blouse looks a bit large through the shoulder and upper back area for you. Did you by any chance do a full bust adjustment? You know, I think I would play with the bust adjustment, first, and then see if that doesn’t help with the back. By working with the bust adjustment, you will give yourself more room through the bust, taking off some of the strain that looks like it’s happening a bit lower.
If you find that your skirts and shirts are always too long at your center back, then it’s quite possible you have a sway back. To fix that, in muslin stage, you take a large tuck at center back, gradually lessening it as you go to your side seams.
Keep working with this pattern, you are so close, really. It’s a great blouse.
1 Reply
Apr 8, 2010, 01.15 PMby wzrdreams
I did not do a FBA…. it has princess seams, so it wouldn’t be too hard to simply adjust the bust curve and add a little length to the CF pieces. Thank you for the advice about the sway back!!
Apr 7, 2010, 10.50 PMby oonaballoona
thaaaaat’s where i recognized the title from!
i love seeing this top in a solid. my brain freezes up at the pattern adjustments… but it think it fits you well & looks great! we always focus on our mistakes, when really, if you look at most RTW stuff, they’ve got the same little flaws going on.
Apr 7, 2010, 08.56 PMby alden
Sooo first off great job, secondly i thought this was a reference to 30 rock
1 Reply
Apr 7, 2010, 11.47 PMby wzrdreams
Totally intentional… I was watching a ton of epsiodes on hulu while sewing this up.