LIVING IN COLOR HEIDI DRESS

Added May 24, 2010

By burdastyle

New York, New Yo...

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19237

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Description

This dress pattern offers versatility and charm: You’ll be all set to saunter into summer with side pockets, cap sleeves and a belted high waist. Ours is made from printed silk charmeuse. Side zip.

Sewing Tip: Instead of folding the top dress tucks inwards (as instructions indicate) try folding and sewing them outwards, or, for more of a variation, turn the tucks into 2 tucks on either side.

During the photo shoot we saw this stunning yellow vintage BMW parked on a quiet Brooklyn side street and had to place out model Anna in front of it. I just helped the colors in the dress to pop!

Material Notes

Light weight fabrics recommended (silk, lightweight wool, cotton lawn).
Sizes 34 – 46: Self: 2 1/2 yards (2m 20cm). Lining: 2 1/2 yards (2m 20cm)
1 12" invisible zipper
2 hooks & eyes for belt closure

Difficulty

Intermediate

Related Techniques

Categories

For
Women
Garment Type
Dress
Style
Bohemian, Rock, Romantic
Material
Cotton, Blends, Silk

Credits

PHOTOGRAPHY
HAIR
MAKEUP
MODEL
ARTISTIC DIRECTOR | STYLIST

14 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • 4343a36d4466c6f353525bdc97ba571be3128723_large

    May 26, 2010, 08.24 AMby thecuriouskiwi

    I am super jealous of the amazing fabric you guys get to sew with! This Heidi is cute and I love the original too, great work BurdaStyle, keep inspiring us please :)

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    May 26, 2010, 04.06 AMby sandrasews

    Wow. Love.

  • Missing

    May 25, 2010, 10.47 PMby caroleleah

    I loved this pattern the first time I saw it, and still do! :D The reminders of great patterns from the archives is completely acceptable to me, although I would not want the restyles to continue indefinitely.

    Regarding the fit, in my experience, I have learned that the only way to really learn what to expect in the finished garment is to carefully measure the pattern pieces, and to know my own measurements. This is the first step in my assessing the fit and ease. Then a muslin is a must, especially in a dress of this type with the lining attached so early in the construction process.

    Fitting after the garment is sewn together has never resulted in the best outcome for me, as I find I am doing only damage control of fitting issues at that point. I absolutely need to measure first, then do a muslin, and then sew my fashion fabric. This sounds as if it is a lot of work, and very time-consuming, but it actually is not!

    I have spent many hours, in the past, attempting to salvage a poorly- fitting garment after I had sewn it together, and sometimes it ended up in the trash bin anyway, so all of my sewing time was wasted. If I measure first, then do a muslin, I end up addressing about 90% of the fitting problems before I cut my precious, possibly expensive, generally irreplacable, fashion fabric. I know my fitting issues will then be only minor tweaking on the “real” garment! Plus, after I have gone to the lengths noted, I have a pattern that is pre-fited, and that I can use again and again, knowing that most of the hard work has already been done, and all that I need to do is cut and sew! :D

    Looking at the photos is fun, but the line drawing is much more valuable to me in deciding whether the garment style will be flattering for me. Very few of us have measurements that exactly match the ones used by the pattern makers, so virtually all of us will need to adjust the basic pattern for our particular fitting needs. We also all have our personal preferences in how much ease, length, etc., we want, and we can probably best assess what the intended design looks like on our very personal selves if we do a muslin or toile first. I consider the pattern my starting point, and it is up to me to add or subtract for my personal figure in order to achieve the lines intended by the designer.

  • 5895503519_d42bddbd6c_o_1__large

    May 25, 2010, 10.00 PMby nikkishell

    The reason most of us here sew is because we have size issues, i’m short in height and short in the torso, i’m also slightly smaller on top than i am on the bottom. Sewing patterns are given general sizing, many women are measured, sizes are taken and a general size chart is made up. You will notice that Burda, Vogue, Simplicity and all the other major pattern companies have different sizing charts depending on their research. My friend find that Vogue patterns fir her best but she makes 2 sizes smaller than Vogue recommend. I prefer Burda patterns but again make a size or two smaller than the chart suggests. I also make sure to make a muslin for anything that is fitted in any way because i know my shape is not that of the generalised measurements in the chart. I know i will always need to shorten the torso and length of my skirts or trousers, i also need to add a little in the butt area because i have a curvy one and also have a slight swayback.

    All of these things add up and no matter how hard you try a commercial pattern is NOT going to fit you perfectly. I can see that this version of the Heidi dress does not fit the model well but i can see past that. I always prefer to base my decision on the technical drawing and how i vision it turning out in my chosen fabrics.

    The right fabric choice makes a HUGE difference to the outcome too. I’m lucky enough to work in a beautiful fabric shop every day where i get to feel the fabrics and learn about them, how they drape, which patterns they would suit best etc.

    I thoroughly recommend when starting a new project that you spend some time making a muslin to ensure the garment will fit. Also look at the style of the garment and choose an appropriate fabric that suits in weight, drape and feel and also the colour and pattern. I certainly don’t always make the right choices and not all of my projects turn out great but by doing these few things i can determine whether the pattern is just not right for me, is crap or i just didn’t make it as well as i could.

    Please take all this into consideration before voicing your opinion about the BurdaStyle patterns (or any other pattern for that matter). The patterns are not going to magically fit every time unless we are willing to do a little work to make that magic work.

    7 Replies
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      May 25, 2010, 10.52 PMby reneebies

      I love this pattern too even though I haven’t made it yet. Thanks for your 2 cents on pattern sizing. While it is irritating when the measurements don’t always correspond to the size on the envelope, in the end sewers get the benefit of better fitting clothes because we can adjust weird pattern sizing to our own fit! That being said, I do think it is important for everyone speak up about little irregularities in sizing, as they can come in handy for others. Especially on this site. I mean, what an awesome resource for sizing and altering!

    • 4343a36d4466c6f353525bdc97ba571be3128723_large

      May 26, 2010, 08.28 AMby thecuriouskiwi

      Well written Nikki :)

      I am jealous of you, working at Tessutis, but I am coming to Melbourne in August so I’ll be popping in to say hi and maybe buy some great fabric (and buttons!) to take home with me :)

    • 6e3656aa7036783b3e4bbc29f34d1029385afafe_large

      May 26, 2010, 02.27 PMby wzrdreams

      Well said Nikki, however I respectfully disagree with your request to not voice personal opinions about patterns on this site. Sharing information and personal experience about a pattern is helpful to anyone attempting that same pattern. When I start a project I look at every project on BS and patternreview that have used the same pattern in an effort to glean information in advance about what to pay special attention to. I am grateful to everyone who takes the time to honestly talk about the problems they have encountered and pass on handy tips to make construction easier. I would ask everyone to continue to share, especially on their project page.

      On the other hand, I don’t need to read complaints about the lack of new patterns each week. At this point, those comments sound whiney and ungrateful. New inspiration is more important to me than a new pattern.

    • 5895503519_d42bddbd6c_o_1__large

      May 26, 2010, 10.14 PMby nikkishell

      wzrdreams- At no point in my post did i request that anyone refrain from voicing their personal opinions. I merely asked that they take all that i had said into consideration BEFORE voicing their opinion. I’m all for knowing what problems people are having with their project, it’s a way of finding help to figure them out. What i’m not for is the blaming of a commercial pattern as it is for the lack of fit to an individual body shape.

      You said: ‘When I start a project I look at every project on BS and patternreview that have used the same pattern in an effort to glean information in advance about what to pay special attention to.’

      This is exactly what should be done and the information extracted should then be taken into consideration when creating your own garment. Look at the shape and size of each person who has made the garment and see which fitting problems they had, are you the same size? will YOU have the same problem or a DIFFERENT problem?

      What i’m saying is, don’t just make the pattern up as it is and expect it to fit, It won’t. Be prepared to put a little research into your planning and a little effort into making changes to suit YOU. Continue to voice your opinions but take all that i have said into consideration before doing so, don’t just blame BurdaStyle by telling them the pattern is no good.

    • 6e3656aa7036783b3e4bbc29f34d1029385afafe_large

      May 27, 2010, 03.49 AMby wzrdreams

      Please excuse me… you said “BEFORE voicing your opinion…” and also “Look at the shape and size of each person who has made the garment and see which fitting problems they had, are you the same size? will YOU have the same problem or a DIFFERENT problem?” Well, in order to answer these questions, people need to talk about their experiences with the pattern. Their personal size, size cut, fit issues etc. This is information that is most beneficial to all. However, this information is personal and not everyone goes to the trouble to add these details. My response to your post was to motivated by my desire to continue to see helpful information posted online, rather than discouraging the sharing of information. I apologize if it sounded like I was arguing a point we both agree on.

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      May 27, 2010, 09.44 AMby nikkishell

      No prob! The more details we have the better the outcome. :)

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      May 30, 2010, 08.42 PMby queenorivers

      wzrdreams I don’t consider myself to be whiny or ungrateful at all don’t attack my character, just my opinion. I agree that restyles and remakes can be good every so often but it has literally been weeks and weeks since we’ve had a new pattern, seeing as this is a pattern company asking for a pattern once every 2 or 3 weeks really isn’t too far-reaching.

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    May 25, 2010, 07.24 PMby crisford1

    I have had big problems too, fitting the bodice, and I picked the smallest size to trace. The neckline is way too low and wide and the armholes are way too low. See my latest version here http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/boho-print-cotton-belted-dress

    I resorted to sewing small darts to take in the neckline.

    I thought it was named Heidi because of traditional folk details like the squarish neckline and high (but not empire) waistline. Although I am still not happy with the fit, even after my alterations, I still love the pattern style.

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    May 25, 2010, 07.22 PMby janecharlotte

    I’m so pleased to hear (and also sad) it wasn’t just me with fit problems. Despite recutting another bodice and trying to make this fit- the dress has ended up in a pile of my dress disasters. I used a great fabric too. It’s a shame as I thought the dress was cute at the time but can now see the fit problems with your model as well. Maybe a restyle- with a new bodice would have been more appealing to BS members?

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    May 25, 2010, 06.57 PMby kristinjg

    I agree with a few of the comments. This dress is photographed beautifully. Lucky you to find that perfect bmw parked on the street. However, it really doesn’t make me want to make the dress. This dress so obviously doesn’t fit the model—so why is it being showcased or why isn’t a different model being used? Good sewing is ALL about creativity combined with GOOD FIT! If you want a dress that fits like a sack, go buy one on the clearance rack at Target and save yourself a bunch of time. The reason I sew is that I am two different sizes on top and bottom so its the best way to have well fitted clothes. I believe that a lot of women are similar. But hey whatever, there’s something for everyone I guess.

  • 5895503519_d42bddbd6c_o_1__large

    May 25, 2010, 11.24 AMby nikkishell

    The Heidi dress is my FAVOURITE dress pattern on BurdaStyle and named after my youngest daughter when she was born (thanks BurdaStyle!). I wear my Heidi dress (http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/heidi-vincent) all the time and receive many compliments. The fit is pretty much perfect and have recently been thinking about making another, if i do i will shorten the bodice to suit my short torso. It’s all about choosing the right fabric for the pattern i think and i love the fabric choice for this one.

    3 Replies
    • 6e3656aa7036783b3e4bbc29f34d1029385afafe_large

      May 25, 2010, 04.28 PMby wzrdreams

      I don’t know about the fit, and I speak from personal experience (and it looks like BS had some issues also). For instance, the finished hip size of the 44 is spot on for my measurements (43 1/2") plus wearing ease, but the size 44 bodice has a finished measurement of 44 1/4" which is 4 1/2" of wearing ease…and I have a DD busom! Something is a little weird with a pattern where the bust is larger than the hips. I’m used to the hips being a tad larger than the bust. I want to give this pattern another try, but I recommend anyone trying this pattern to trace off a bodice muslin prior to cutting your final size… do NOT cut corners on this pattern.

    • Image_large

      May 27, 2010, 06.26 AMby rifka

      Nikkishell, your Heidi is amazing. I would never had thought this pattern could look so good. Looks like a completely different dress.

    • 5895503519_d42bddbd6c_o_1__large

      May 27, 2010, 09.47 AMby nikkishell

      Thanks Rifka! It is the same dress without any alterations. I made it a while back and have since learned more about fit and making pattern changes. Although the dress fits me as it is i will make some changes in the bodice for the next one.

  • Il_430xn_156061385_large

    May 25, 2010, 08.24 AMby suzetewilliams

    I have to say that I love the fabric and the contrast, but the dress isn’t a big deal. It’s plain and frumpy and can only look good on a model with endless legs. I think photography matters far too much on this site too. Sure, it is important to exhibit your creations well, but sometimes I see shoddy work shown on the front page just because the “photographer” was good. This site is not about photography, it is about sewing, isn’t it? Maybe I’m just being a grumpy old cow… or maybe not.

    2 Replies
    • Naburdaprofil_large

      May 25, 2010, 09.42 AMby janul

      Well, you kind of read my mind… It´s ALL about the photos. That´s just the reality, I think. Often I see nice clothes here shown on horrible photos (bad quality photos or poor styling or both). I too can´t take a nice photo (I tried, but it´s just not working…). And everything looks 1000% better on a great photo, I guess. I´m sorry for those with bad photographs, mine included! :) They just don´t get so much attention, even if the clothes themselves are as beautiful and well done. (Mine excluded, I still have to learn a lot :). Well, time to learn how to take nice photos, I guess!

    • Image_large

      May 27, 2010, 05.38 AMby rifka

      Totally agree.

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    May 24, 2010, 06.23 PMby carottesauvage

    Ah! Lafayette and the masonic temple! Brrrrrrrook K klyn… I like the saturated colours of the main picture, as if this variation was meant to fit the yellow cab The dress is really nice on dark tights and those shoes are fun!

  • Likejersey-56_o_large

    May 24, 2010, 05.28 PMby likejersey

    Where the original pattern has the bodice shaped with one large pleat on each side (pressed toward the side seams) this variation has two pleats on each side (pressed toward the center). I always though the one large pleat was slightly unflattering. Too bad there is no mention of this alteration in the notes above.

    1 Reply
    • Letterbicon_large

      May 24, 2010, 05.48 PMby burdastyle

      Hi there, we actually kept the pleats the same as the original, except as you mentioned, we folded, stitched and pressed them facing outwards. The “second” pleat you see is just how I tucked the dress into the belt, as it was slightly large for the model, but the dress still has only 1 pleat on either side :)

  • 6e3656aa7036783b3e4bbc29f34d1029385afafe_large

    May 24, 2010, 04.56 PMby wzrdreams

    Ooooooo, I love this fabric and the pictures of this variation show more detail than the original.

    I tried to make the Heidi once in a size 44 which matched my measurements, but the bodice gapped a LOT at the neckline and generally fit larger than I would wear in RTW. So, I tried a couple times to do a FBA on the size 42 but was never happy with my pattern work. I think that I’m going to try again with the size 42 as is and cut generous side seam allowances for fitting and also choose a fabric with a little bit of stretch. I think the bust darts should be fairly helpful in that regard.

    ETA: the construction and the full lining of the Heidi dress make it a bit tricky to adjust on the fly. Explanation: the bodice lining is installed almost immediately… prior to shoulder seams, waist seam, skirt seams, zipper seam. This dress is so cute that it’s worth a repeat attempt, but I would love to see more information about getting the fit right and I’m thinking about changing the order of construction.

  • 20fb33df4a0c917817bd1d9027a1ba824e4a45e1_large

    May 24, 2010, 04.15 PMby barbaraagatha

    I made Heidi in white for my birthday (Project name: Birthday Heidi) but I always feel like it just runs large… I also see it here on the model looking a little baggy. Tips?

    1 Reply
    • Letterbicon_large

      May 24, 2010, 04.38 PMby burdastyle

      To help with the bagginess (and to make a new variation off of the top of this pattern) I would make the front “tucks” into princess seams. Using the princess seams you could shape a more fitted top. You could also raise the armhole a couple of inches as I noticed it being low. This dress was 1-2 sizes too large for the model though as well so it does look slightly baggy on her…

      alison

  • Me_large

    May 24, 2010, 02.57 PMby queenorivers

    It is a beautiful on trend dress but REALLY? I want to spend my money buying new products for you that just aren’t appearing? I mean a restyle every so often is cool but a restyle every week for God knows how long? I literally sit at my computer around mondays and refresh and refresh hoping for something new but there’s no new patterns! What!

    2 Replies
    • 20fb33df4a0c917817bd1d9027a1ba824e4a45e1_large

      May 24, 2010, 04.14 PMby barbaraagatha

      I happily await for Mondays to come, refreshing my browser!
      In any case, I’m not sure this is even a refashion. It’s Heidi in a different fabric. Stunning though.

    • Me_large

      May 24, 2010, 09.47 PMby queenorivers

      I really don’t want to be a cow about this because I really love Burda but isn’t it worse that it’s not a restyle because it is literally nothing original?

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http://burdastyle.com//projects/living-in-color-heidi-dress?image=113936