Leather "Le Smoking Jacket"

Added Feb 8, 2012

by Lederherr

Sutter Creek, Un...

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Description

This is my first item i have made using a commercial Pattern.

This product is for sale
By Lederherr at ETSY (Lederherrdesigngroup)

Material Notes

Chocolate brown, buttery soft deer-tanned hide and red/gold damask print fabric

Difficulty

Intermediate

Categories

Season
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
For
Unisex
Garment Type
Jacket/Blazer
Style
Bohemian, Classic, Evening Wear, Romantic, Victorian, Vintage
Material
Cotton, Leather/Fur

3 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • Sam_0020_large

    Feb 11, 2012, 07.21 AMby wardrobe-cat

    Fantastic. Interesting textural use.

    Any particular tips on working with leather rather than fabric? I know that’s a fairly wide territory, but any would be welcome.

    2 Replies
    • Etsy_avatar_large

      Feb 11, 2012, 05.26 PMby Lederherr

      Yes, Leather stretches like crazy so I stay stitched all pieces at a 1/4 ". This also "Pre-Stretched " the leather
      A good quality glue ( I use Fabric-Tac ) is crucial for gluing seams prior to stitching.
      Some seams like the hem were just glued.
      Glue then stitch as close as you can get to the bulkier turned seam areas then punch and hand stitch to finish. I.E. Collar , shoulders, lapel bottom.
      This was a fun project, too bad it turns out i am not a large but an extra large and the pattern wasn’t graded that big.
      Any tips on grading patterns up?

    • Sam_0020_large

      Feb 11, 2012, 11.49 PMby wardrobe-cat

      Thankyou so very much. That was very informative. Can’t wait to get my hands on some!

      Most patterns have a place on the pattern for lengenthing/shortning. You can make a similar line through the pattern from shoulder to hem. Workout how much you need to add, then divide by the number of pattern pieces (ie. right front, left front, back cut on fold – divide by 3). You may have a preference for more ease, add it in now. Cut the pattern down the length, add a strip of paper the width needed, stick pattern back together. Pin the pattern together as if it were made up and try it on. Then you can go for it. Sleeves need to be delt with a little differently. Any changes you make to the sleeve cap need to compensated for in the sleeve depth within the body of the pattern. Be careful to maintian the shape of the arm syche. This technique may not be the exact ‘approved method’ (I’m pretty sure there are several other steps) but I have used it for years and it works well for me. You might want to make a test (a ‘muslin’ or ‘tualle’ not sure about the spelling on the last one) in fabric before you cut out the leather next time, save you the frustration.
      If you need more information, there are hundreds of books, online turorials and websites that will be useful.
      Hope this is helpful and coherant ;)

  • Dsc09595avatar_large

    Feb 8, 2012, 09.10 PMby Ralf Schmitz

    oh wow !!!! this is GREAT!

  • 204_large

    Feb 8, 2012, 07.01 PMby martinK

    that’s a cool one. Nice work!

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