Added Mar 23, 2009
New York, New Yo...
BUST DARTS for sizes 20 to 32 (EU 48 to 60)
Pin bust darts and stitch to a point. Knot thread ends. Press the darts (a).
CENTER BACK PIECE
Center back seam / opening / pleat
Position the center back pieces together, right sides facing.
Pin the opening, the center back seam and the pleat from top to bottom. Stitch the center seam from opening sign to the cross line (arrow). Secure seam ends. Keep opening and pleat pinned. Press allowance apart (b).
From the cross line, position the pleat underlay on the pleat deepness piece; right sides facing. Pin edges together (2/8) and stitch, ending 4” (10 cm) from the bottom edge (arrow). Trim allowances and neaten. Open the basting stitches along the opening ©.
BACK PRINCESS SEAMS
Position the side back pieces and center back pieces together, right sides facing. Pin the princess seams (seam 3/9) and stitch. Neaten allowances and press apart (d).
Position the front and back pieces together, right sides facing. Pin shoulder seams (4/10) and stitch. Neaten allowances and press apart.