Added Feb 25, 2008
New York, New Yo...
Stitch the center seam across the back lining piece. Stitch the front darts from the marked pocket opening lines. Cut the allowance of the front dart line until you almost reach the seam. Stitch the pocket opening edges approximately _” (5 mm) wide, on top of each other, from the corner to the side edge. Press the darts towards the front, and press the allowances downwards. Stitch the yokes onto the front pieces and the back piece, seams 1 and 2. Stitch the side seams. Stitch the sleeve seams. Apply the sleeves onto the armhole.
Line the jacket, hemline:
Fold the facing along the front jacket to the outside, the hemline is still open (unfinished hemline). Stitch the lining onto the inner facing edges. Fold the facing inside again. Stitch the allowance by hand. Fold the lining along the bottom jacket edge inside, press the fold line gently; then push the lining hemline up to give a loose fit to the lining. Pin it onto the jacket hemline.
The other open facing edges and the lining need to be stitched by hand. The extra that was given to the lining needs to be folded onto the hemline to straighten it out, press gently.
Stitch the sleeve lining:
At the upper opening end of the sleeve, pin the lining seam line onto the sleeve seam line, thereby moving the lining up to loosen it. Fold the lining back along the opening. Fold the lining of the bottom underlay part of the sleeve neatly, and pin. The part that was folded back, position now onto the opening and cut the underlay edge to a width of _” (1 cm). Cut it then _” (1 cm) under the opening. At the corner cut _” (1 cm) diagonally. Push the width of the lining up, fold it straight, then pin it straightened onto the opening edge of the upper sleeve and onto the underlay of the upper opening end. Fold the lower lining edge inside and pin it onto the hemline allowance. Stitch the lining onto both sleeves.
Stitch the front bottom edges/hemline edges from facing end. Stitch the lapel and the collar.
Apply a button hole onto the right front piece.