Added Feb 25, 2008
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Lapel collar and front edges:
Topstitch the shoulder seam of the facing. Pin the facing onto the jacket, the right sides are facing. Try to extend the width at the lapel corners by pulling the facing slightly. Stitch the facing along the hemline, the front edges and the lapel edges to the cross line, thereby leaving the last 1” (2 cm) of the seam edges at the facing ends open. The facing will be positioned on the fabric, the right sides are facing.
Stitch the collar pieces along the edges on top of each other, starting at seam 3 thereby, again adjusting the width at the lapel corners. Turn the collar inside out. Move the collar between the body of the jacket and the facing. Stitch the under collar onto the neckline of the front piece; stitch from the cross line to the dart. Press the allowances apart. Stitch the long edge of the under collar onto the neckline: start at the back center line towards the shoulders. Continue stitching the edges of the lapel collar. Press the allowances of the collar edges apart, and press the dart flat.
Stitch the narrow side of the top collar onto the facing until you reach the corner. At the corners, cut the allowances of the facing. Stitch the long edges of the top collar. Press the allowances apart. Fold the facing inside. Press the seam allowances inside, but don’t stitch them yet.
Pin the collar edges on top of each other, be exact. Fold the back facing to the top, and stitch the allowances, narrowly and close to the collar edge, on top of each other. Fold the facing down again.
Stitch the upper sleeve to the under sleeve at the front sleeve seams. Stitch the back sleeve from the sleeve cap to the slit at the top of the facing/underlay. At the upper sleeves, fold the facing on the upper sleeve and the underlay from the under sleeve and the seam allowances to the outside. Stitch the corners diagonally. Trim the allowances of the diagonal seam to _” (5 mm) in width and press apart. Stitch the allowances of the under sleeve onto the long edge of the underlay. Fold the seam allowances and opening facing inside. Press the seam and facing edges, continue pressing the allowances of the long edges along the underlay. Stitch the back sleeve seams towards the opening slit. At the inner slit, stitch across the facing and underlay. Stitch the seam allowances together by hand. Apply the little buttons as marked, thereby enclosing the underlay.
Ease the sleeves (help the fabric edge by slightly pulling or pushing one edge onto the other along a seam), and apply them. Also, apply the shoulder pads.
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