Added Feb 25, 2008
New York, New Yo...
Piping pockets with covers, front dart:
Pin the piping straps onto the pocket edges (cross edges where the pocket opens) of the front pieces, the right sides are facing. Allow the piping straps to overlap approximately _” (1 cm) along the front dart lines. Stitch the piping along the seam line.
Do a diagonal cut along the front dart lines to the bottom seam end; do not enclose the piping straps. Press the allowances apart. Fold the piping straps around the pocket opening, inside the pocket and make sure that the width of the piping is distributed equally. Stitch along the seam line. Stitch the darts, thereby enclosing the piping ends. The fold lines of the piping meet. Press the darts towards the front center. Pin the lining onto the allowances of the lower piping, stitch narrowly along the allowances. End stitching 1/16” (2 mm) before the marked side seam. Press the pocket pouch downwards.
Fold the side pocket pouch edges back, and pin. Stitch an underlined and another not underlined cover piece on top of each other, the right ides are facing. Leave the edges open. Fold inside out. Stitch _“(7 mm) wide along the edges. Push the cover edges through the pocket opening to the inside, and stitch narrowly along the piping edge onto the allowances. Pin the pocket pouches onto the allowances of the covers: stitch narrowly along the seam, from the allowance of the upper piping and end 2 mm before the marked side seam. Fold back the pocket pouches edges, and pin. Baste the pocket openings.
Stitch the back center seam. Press the allowances apart.
Cut the lapel darts around 2.5’ (6 cm) into the center. Stitch the yokes onto the front pieces and the back pieces; seams 1 and 2. Stitch the yokes along the seams.
Stitch the side seams. Cut in the allowances of the front pieces, above and under the piping. Press the allowances above and under the cuts apart, between the cuts press to the backside. Remove the pins from the side pocket pouch edges. Trim the pocket pouches to equal size and stitch on top of each other.