Added Feb 4, 2011
by Jamie Lau
Brooklyn, New Yo...
Trace off your back skirt sloper onto a new piece of pattern paper. Draw a straight line from the dart vanishing point down to the hem of the skirt.
Slash up the line from the hem to the dart vanishing point. Next, slash one of your dart legs to the vanishing point. With the paper still slightly connected, pivot until the dart is closed, matching up the two dart legs as the hem fans out. Tape the dart closure. Smooth out the waistline if necessary.
Tape paper beneath the pattern to fill the opening area. Measure the insertion amount (2 3/8 inches), then divide by 2 (1 3/16 inch). Extend the hemline by this amount at the side seam, then draw a line from the low hip to this point. Blend if necessary. Measure the original side seam from low hip down to the hem. Adjust the new side seam if necessary so that it is equal to the original one. Lastly, blend the hem of the skirt.
For the back sloper, notch the following: the low hip at the side and the low hip at center back and 1/4 inch above this mark. Center back always gets two notches. Write in your cutting instructions: “Cut 2 – self.” Add 1/2 inch seam allowance for cutting and a 1 1/2 inch hem allowance.
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