Added Dec 31, 2010
by Jamie Lau
Brooklyn, New Yo...
Using your back dart width measurement (3/8 inch), determine your back dart length with the following guide (Dart width – Dart length):
3/8 inch – 3 inches
3/4 inch – 3 1/2 inches
1 inch – 4 inches
1 1/4 inch – 4 1/2 inches
In this example, the back dart length would be 3 inches. Divide your back dart width (3/8 inch) in half to find the center of your back dart width (3/16 inch) and mark N. Draw a straight line down from N to indicate your back dart length (3 inches) and mark O.
Drop down 1/2 inch from E along center back and mark P. Square off 3/4 inch at center back in a right angle starting at P, then use a drafting curve to shape your back waist, ending at M.
Maintaining the same dart width, bring your dart legs (K and L) straight down to your newly drawn waistline and label Q and R respectively. Connect your new dart legs (Q and R) to the apex (O). If necessary, adjust the top of R, the second dart leg, so that it is the same length as the first one (Q).
Fold your dart in half along the line drawn for the back dart length (N to O) and, using a tracing wheel, score across the waistline over the dart bulk so that it is flush with the waistline. Unfold and draw in the new shaping.
Excluding the back dart width (Q to R), measure the distance between E and M to make sure that it equals your back waist calculation (6 7/8 inches) and adjust M as necessary.
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