Added Nov 20, 2007
New York, New Yo...
Position the right sides of the under sleeve onto the upper sleeve. Baste back sleeve seam (seam number 11) and stitch. Press seam allowances onto upper sleeve. Topstitch seam 1⁄4" (0.7 cm) wide. (a)
To ease sleeve caps, stitch two closely spaced lines of machine basting (longest stitch setting) from _ to _ Fold sleeves lengthwise, stitch front sleeve seams (seam number 12). Press seam allowances apart. (b)
Fold cuff on FOLD LINE, right facing in. Stitch side edges together. Trim allowances, trim corners diagonally. Turn cuff, baste edges, press and topstitch 1⁄4" (0.7 cm) wide. Apply 3 BUTTONHOLES into the front edge of cuff for view A the same distance from edge as marked for size 2. Pin front edge on back edge at placement line. Baste open edges together. ©
Baste cuff right sides together with lower edge of sleeve (seam number 13). Front edge meets with back sleeve seam. Stitch. Press allowances onto sleeve. Topstitch seam 1⁄4" (0.7 cm) wide. (d)
Setting in Sleeves
Tighten bobbin threads slightly to ease sleeve caps.
Pin sleeve into armhole right sides facing. When setting in sleeves, 4 points are important for proper fit:
_ Match cross marks 14 on upper sleeve and front. Match marking on under sleeve with side seam. Match marking at sleeve cap with shoulder seam. Distribute fullness evenly to avoid forming tucks. Baste and stitch sleeve from sleeve side. Press seam allowances onto sleeve. Try the jacket on. Insert SHOULDER PADS, pin and sew them onto the shoulder seam allowances. (e)