Added Jun 16, 2011
I used a sloper made using instructions from the “Bunka Fashion Series, Garment Design Textbook 1: Fundamentals of Garment Design”: http://www.bunka.ac.jp/contents/en_gd_text.htm. But the same techniques can be used to modify any sloper.
This is the first step in modifying the front of the sloper. In this picture, it is shown in thicker line. I have removed all waist darts – they will not be used for this design. The majority of the work here will be to move the bust dart and add some fullness to create an A-line design.
1. Add length to the bodice: extend the length from the waist to the hem line by amount you wish p- depends on what the you want the total length to be (remember, you can always lengthen/shorten at the end).
2. Draw a line from the bust point “BP” perpendicular to the hem line. Mark point “A”. This line will help us move some of the bust dart to add fullness.
3. Decide the amount of fullness you want to add to the hemline and mark it as A1. In this case I chose 7cm – so distance A to A1 is 7 cm, which means I will add a total of 14 am to the width at the hem line in the front (as compared to the width around the waist). This is a completely arbitrary number, however, it is limited by the size of the dart: if you were to cut from A to BP and rotate the lower left part of the pattern clockwise around BP, to close the bust dart, and then measure A to A1 – that would be the max A to A1 length.
4. I will also add some fullness on the side – 2 on each side. So draw line from B (the original corner) to B1 2 cm long. Connect B1 up to the underarm point – this line will be the new side seam line. Again, choosing 2 cm is arbitrary, however, for an a-line design you want to add fullness all around not only on the sides.
Now we are ready for some cutting and rotating…
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