First mockup - need help with fitting

Added Jul 15, 2011

by Ida Gustafsson

Stockholm, Sweden

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644

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Description

This is my first mockup. I changed the bust darts and the front darts. Moved the front darts 1 inch to the center. And moved the bust darts 1 inch and made them longer.

The shirt is too tight around the hip. Can’t close it all the way down. But what about the rest of the fit? Is it good? Or do I need to change something more? And how do I do that?

It was very hard to take a picture of the back. But I think it looks ok. I have two shirts here on Burda with the same pattern (before moving the darts). Are the changes better or worse?

Thanks!

Material Notes

Cotton.

Difficulty

Novice

Categories

For
Women
Garment Type
Shirts
Material
Cotton

4 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Jul 17, 2011, 02.09 PMby katexxxxxx

    Looks like what you need is a little more ease across the bust at the front, and a little more ease in the sleeve head.

    For ease at the hip, add a little at the side rather than letting the darts out.

  • Mee1_large

    Jul 15, 2011, 11.17 PMby fashionfreek

    Apologies Ida..i didnt look at your other photographs..oops..i see where you were going. Good luck with your project. Sounds words from Anne.x

  • Twitter_pic_large

    Jul 15, 2011, 10.09 PMby Anne Wagenhauser

    The darts should stop approx. 13cm below the waistline. Taking them further down will affect the ease and movement toward the hip. First do this adjustment, then see if you need to do anything further.

    You can add to the side seams from the waist down. If you do the following: 1/2 your hip measurement + 1.5cm, divide by 2. that measurement should be the width of the back and of the front, from centre line to side seam. If your pattern pieces are narrower the garment won’t fit properly, so extend from the waistline. Does that make sense??? :s
    3 Replies
    • 204487_10150119737091567_641581566_7154020_5331618_o_large

      Jul 15, 2011, 10.19 PMby Ida Gustafsson

      Thank you! Makes sense. The hip area is not really a problem… The bust and waist are harder. I want the shirt to look tight… but i also want to be able to move my arms.
      So bust darts and front darts… where should they end on the bust? Do you know?

    • Twitter_pic_large

      Jul 16, 2011, 10.07 PMby Anne Wagenhauser

      The front darts should finish 2.5cm from the bust point, and from the pictures, this looks like it is ok. It may be that the chest is too wide… if you want it tighter across that area you will have to narrow the bodice at the armhole, without making the armhole or armscye measurement any greater. Are you using a commercial patternhere, or a self drafted one?

    • 204487_10150119737091567_641581566_7154020_5331618_o_large

      Jul 16, 2011, 11.05 PMby Ida Gustafsson

      Thank you for your help! I use a pattern from simplicity (amazing fit 2339). Do you mean under or over the chest… or over? ’Cos it is a bit tight over the chest…
      But there are a lot of fabric under the arms… do I need to redraw the whole arm to remove that?

  • Mee1_large

    Jul 15, 2011, 08.15 PMby fashionfreek

    This comment was deleted by the author.

    1 Reply
    • 204487_10150119737091567_641581566_7154020_5331618_o_large

      Jul 15, 2011, 10.08 PMby Ida Gustafsson

      … but if i take the sides out… it will not look fitted anymore. And that is what i want, a shirt that fits me perfectly.

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