Burda Style For people who sew

SLEEVE SLIT
Position the upper sleeve and undersleeve together. Pin the back sleeve seam (seam number 8), including the slit. Stitch the seam from the top to the slit sign. Secure seam ends. Keep the slit pinned. Cut into the corners of the undersleeve allowances, close to the stitch line (arrow) (a).

Press the allowances apart, from the top to the cut. Press into the upper sleeve. Fold the UNDERLAP facing (undersleeve) and pin. Press. At the end of the slit, stitch the edges of facing and underlap, not enclosing the sleeve (b).

To ease the width of the sleeve curve, double stitch from * to * using basting stitches. Fold the sleeve lengthwise and stitch the front sleeve seams (seam number 9). Stitch the sleeve hemline ©.

APPLY SLEEVE
To further ease the width, slightly tighten the bobbin threads of the basting stitches along the sleeve cap. When applying the sleeve to the armhole, the following points are important for the right fit of the sleeve:

The cross lines 10 of upper sleeve and front piece have to meet. The cross line of the undersleeve has to meet the cross line of the side piece. The cross line of the sleeve cap has to meet the shoulder seam. The eased width has to be distributed in a way that does not pucker or create pleats. Pin the sleeve onto the armhole, right sides facing, and stitch. Press the allowances inside the sleeve (d).

Apply SHOULDER PADS and stitch onto the allowances of shoulder seams and armhole seams.

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