Burda Style For people who sew

COLLAR / LAPEL
Stitch the collar stand onto the upper and undercollar (seam number 4), right sides facing. Trim allowances, snip in and press apart. Topstitch the seam narrowly, enclosing the allowances (a).

Stitch the undercollar onto the front pieces (seam number 5), from the cross line to the corner. Stitch the upper collar accordingly (seam number 7). Image shows undercollar (b)

Snip in the allowances of front piece and facings (arrow), from the corners to the stitch line ©. Image shows front piece.

Stitch the undercollar from corners to corner onto the neckline. Stitch the upper collar accordingly onto the facing. Snip in allowances and press apart. Image shows undercollar (d).

Pin upper and undercollar together, the upper collar is slightly bigger and needs to be pushed up. From the seam line, stitch the collar pieces together. Do not enclose the collar seam line allowances of front piece and facings (e).

Turn the allowances up. From the cross line, pin the facings on the front edge. Push the extra length of the lapel up. Stitch the edges together. Trim allowances and cut the corners at a slant. Cut along the hemline, ending 1” (2 cm) before the facing end (f).

Turn the collar inside out. Fold facings to the inside. pin the edges and press. Keep the undercollar and front pieces slightly bunched up along the FOLD LINE. Stitch using a diagonal surface satin stitch. Stitch the collar seam lines using backstitch (g).

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