Ehren

Added Apr 13, 2009

By burdastyle

New York, New Yo...

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Description

Whether a night on stage or Prom Night, a tuxedo is a must for those special evenings in a man’s life. Our tux jacket has a classic cut, pointed satin lapels, and flap welt pockets. We used the Jochen pant pattern for our tux pant, with the only alterations being the satin strip sewn down the side seam, and a flat wide hook and eye at the center front instead of a button. We also used our David bow tie pattern.

Material Notes

wool suiting, silk satin, silk lining, shoulder pads, interfacing, satin covered buttons

Difficulty

Expert

Categories

For
Men
Garment Type
Jacket/Blazer
Style
Business, Classic, Evening Wear
Material
Silk, Wool

Credits

Photographer
Model

20 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • Missing

    May 12, 2009, 01.26 PMby musclpete

    First time to leave a comment – I’ve been a LOOONG time knitter and crocheter and finally about 12 years ago got into sewing. I love it.

    At the time, I worked in a ‘suit and tie’ place and found it dreadfully expensive to go get a suit. I wanted to save some and make my own. I started and I must say the jackets I came out with are great. True, menswear (jackets at least) are about the foundation. Heres some tips if your interested: 1. Notched collars are TONS easier than peaked ones (as here) 2. For the collar ‘Points’ sew ACROSS the point using small stitches. 3. Untill you get some skill, don’t sew the upper collar/facing (or revers) to the under collar/suit all the way to the *. Sew close to it and turn it out to the right side and press. THEN ladder or blind stitch closed by hand on the right side. That’s why it bunches in the ‘crotch’ of the peaked lapel on the picture above! Sometimes if it’s wool or wool-blend, you can shrink it out, but with satin, you’re kind of stuck. 4. It maybe gauche, but on suits, I don’t put in the double welt pockets on the OUTSIDE. I never use ‘em so I don’t miss’em. But I do put in the single welts on the lining. 5. Learn to padstitch. And I always take the under collar pattern and padstitch that to hair canvas (or you can use French canvas if you can find it.) If done correctly, once pressed, the collar stands by itself without being attached, on a table. It hugs the back of the neck and fits like a dream. 6. Suit fronts are available online to padstitich to the jacket. Armani never uses canvas – instead uses a fusible. (Most off-therack suits do)If you want to do this be very careful about what kind of fusible you use to match your fabric. I there is some ease(like a dart) you can sew the fusible and fuse it with the ease.

  • Rose1_large

    Apr 19, 2009, 05.39 PMby ralarkins

    Humm. Never thought about that, PatchKiKi. I guess if this a poor selection (by comparison) for Plus Size compared to regular Missus patterns. Big and Tall patterns must be almost non existent. Probably a business opportunity there.

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    Apr 17, 2009, 05.14 PMby patchkiki

    I love this. This is where a lot of pattern companies have failed in “Men’s Clothing Patterns”. I do not know why do all men’s pattern stop on 48 for chest size? I do not know any petite men. Most of the problem I see men are having is that a diamond shape of fabric must be added onto the crotch of a pair of pants so when they sit they do not split the pants. The reason being that their thighs are enormous. I always wondered why clothing sizes for men do not reach XXX? If you have a giant of a man how do you calculate or add measurements and the extra crotch alterations? Is it possible to calculate large alterations before you go out to purchase the fabric? Of course I am a pinstripe freak. I believe this pattern was well done. I have paid more for little boys patterns.
  • Rose1_large

    Apr 16, 2009, 12.30 PMby ralarkins

    7USD isn’t much for a jacket pattern of that magnitude. Just the front should have pieces for the outer apparel fabric, interlining, interfacing (multiple types), lapel, and the lining (not to mention pockets, pocket welts, pocket flaps, etc.) The question is – Do the instructions live up menswear tailoring construction techniques? Which if it did, I would expect to pay a whole lot more. The shaping of shoulder, collar, lapel is done by hand. Pad stitching by hand in those areas will form a curve (shape) that no flat bed machine or iron can do. Think of it as the difference between a KMart jacket and a tailored jacket. The Kmart one may fit, but it will look like flat pieces cut and sewn to fit a bunch of curves. The tailored is shaped by hand and set with proper pressing and should appear to flow over/around the curves. (That is my one pet peeve – a gorgeously sewn piece and the seams/collars/cuffs were left unpressed. You have an iron, get the sleeve board, ham and point presser/clapper, too! It makes a world of difference between homemade and well made.)

    The forum has a thread about tailoring techniques with a Threads article link. You won’t be getting out your hand needle and thread, but it does cover the various interfacing fabrics used to shape a tailored Misses jacket.

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    Apr 16, 2009, 05.38 AMby kawaiijamaican

    nice now all i need to do is know how to make it lol

  • Missing

    Apr 16, 2009, 04.26 AMby ramonared

    “think there’s just not much to be seen on the pictures, I mean for a sewer”

    “now I wonder what’s in the pattern? … ! Maybe a technical drawing would be nice too…”

    “It needs a line drawing to see if it … "

    “I was wondering about that too… There’s also a picture instead of a technical drawing on the ‘pattern’ entry. And although I make a lot of black clothes myself … it’s very hard to show any detail in it at all”

    “Patterns should come with technical drawings, amount of fabric needed for all sizes and in yard as well as meters, finished chest size, and very important for me, numbers of pages …”

    " … pictures where no details are to be seen because of the dark black? You’ll better pamper poor Zora with some goodies …"

    " … I would prefer more technical pitures – they don’t have to show any mood or pseudo artistic camera work …"
  • D396ea32db814cafb8c9e19242e4d7aa9e1c7c1a_large

    Apr 15, 2009, 12.00 PMby teamydear

    Zora is right, it’s cool you posted a men’s pattern, it’s a pity it’s too similar to one there already was! I would love to see some more men’s patterns, different styles of pants would be cool (maybe variations or alteration how to’s would be good enough to fix that?)! The ones zora mentioned are great, maybe shorts too! And I’d love to see some younger everyday wear like hoodie, sweaters with or without a zipper, a polo shirt, more sporty clothes, some type of men’s raincoat too maybe, cargo style jacket… Or men’s pyjamas, that might be fun! (though my boyfriend doesn’t wear any….) Bottom line: more menswear please! There’s already plenty of women’s patterns here, it might be cooler to do more how to’s, learn us more on altering and creating stuff out of one pattern instead of posting more women’s patterns. Instead, you could do more plus size women’s patterns, men’s patterns, maybe plus size men’s patterns too! And a few for children (there’s a lot of this around already, but again boys seem to be disadvantaged, and there’s not much for children between 9-12 available, I think), maybe maternity stuff (or more maternity alteration how to’s)…. I have to stop rambling now, but I hope you read our suggestions, maybe more members have something to say! The last thing I wanted to add is I do like your focus on formal wear right now!

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    Apr 15, 2009, 01.33 AMby teamydear

    So it’s the same as the Stinchcomb except for the collar and the slit in the back. I suppose if you really need this collar it’s okay to pay 7$ instead of 5 for the Stinchcomb. But if you still have the Stinchcomb from back when it was free… The people who sew well enough to make this jacket can draft collars anyway, I suppose :) I am looking forward to their creations!

  • Cass-burdaprofilesquare_large

    Apr 15, 2009, 12.16 AMby cassii

    In regards to the price, I’d just like to put a different slant on it. In Australia most midrange (think Simplicity) print patterns cost around $16AUD. That’s about $12US. $7US for a jacket doesn’t seem so bad now huh? :)

    I think a Tux is a pure challenge item for the home sewer who is already at an advanced level. I know it’s way out of my league.

    1 Reply
    • Out_of_the_limo_large

      Apr 19, 2010, 01.54 PMby davee09

      it depends where u shop in australia! if u get it off ebay or are a member at spotlight its heavily discounted and around $3 to about $8. but also depends if u want vogue etc because that is a much more expensive pattern. i love spotlight on sale .

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    Apr 14, 2009, 11.14 PMby luzie

    I agree with ghainskom, the dimmed light is not the perfect choice for showing things for people who are interested in sewing details. I would prefer more technical pitures – they don’t have to show any mood or pseudo artistic camera work. Even if my sewing skills are not advanced enough to sew this, I have a question. You sell a tux jacket pattern for 7 dollars I would have to print, to glue together and to cut out that could be bought in a similar style for the same or less as an envelope pattern as well – ok, I understand you want to make money and have to pay your bills. But why (just as in the case of the womens patterns) don’t you sell them with “all” sizes? My boyfriend is a 102 – I don’t think, I would ever buy a pattern I would have to tinker with (not sure about the term) and lenghten it as well…

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    Apr 14, 2009, 05.19 PMby nehmah

    Thanks to the Team for a prompt response and uploading the technical/line drawing of the Tuxedo jacket. Littlehotspot has made valid points. The skills needed in menswear and womenswear are quite different. The shell for the chest area that’s built into the front is what gives men that smooth, full-chested appearance. Layers of staggered padding in the shoulder pads, the hand sewing around the lapel points, the use of alpaca at the hem and sleeve folds all contribute to that “Custom/bespoke” look of finely tailored suits. Many of these techniques I have found to be useful in tailored suits for women. Do I sew for men, other than my husband? Not on your Nellie! No more than a tailor would hop into bridal wear, and expect the first gown to equal a Vera Wang. After all of that, I believe the members who have excellent skills can and will make a lovely Ehren jacket that will give it’s owner use for many years. I hope they post photos. Nehmah

  • Missing

    Apr 14, 2009, 02.56 PMby hotlittlepot

    The truth of it is that this is a peaked lapel jacket with double welt pockets with flaps and most likely a single back vent. More pictures won’t tell you that a tailored jacket is much more complex on the inside than the outside.

    What makes a beautiful jacket is not the pockets or style lines, it is good tailoring. Yes, you can make a man’s jacket with this pattern. Will it look like it came from a tailor’s hands? No.

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    Apr 14, 2009, 02.41 PMby victors

    $7 for a collar? wow!

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    Apr 14, 2009, 02.01 PMby ememtee

    I wonder who this pattern is actually aimed at? Men’s tailoring needs to be so sharp and precise that I can’t imagine many hobby sewers wanting to tackle it. It would be interesting to hear what other members think.

  • Picture_2_large

    Apr 14, 2009, 02.00 PMby alden

    Hey Everyone, Just wanted to let you know the technical drawing is now up. Sorry for the delay!

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    Apr 14, 2009, 08.23 AMby lauriana

    I was wondering about that too… There’s also a picture instead of a technical drawing on the ‘pattern’ entry. And although I make a lot of black clothes myself and it’s the traditional colour for a tuxedo, it’s very hard to show any detail in it at all. From what I can see, the pattern looks a bit like Stinchcomb with a different collar… (although of course, classic menswear is rather bound by rules, so maybe that’s why)

  • 990745-073_large

    Apr 14, 2009, 08.20 AMby nehmah

    The description seems to indicate that this has just a jacket. It needs a line drawing to see if it is at all similar to the Stinchcomb. A comparison of the lapels would be a good idea; I really cannot see a difference. At $7.00 (US) there should be a vest or formal shirt included.

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    Apr 14, 2009, 07.57 AMby teamydear

    Yes, Ghainskom is right! Maybe a technical drawing would be nice too…

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    Apr 14, 2009, 07.55 AMby teamydear

    What a beautiful suit! Very classy! But now I wonder what’s in the pattern? All the suit pieces (Jochen pant, David bow tie, jacket and shirt), or just the jacket? I am curious to see what beautiful tuxes users will make!

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    Apr 14, 2009, 07.54 AMby ghainskom

    Finally it can be seen. I like the idea of combining severeal BS patterns to make a whole. And this is in line with last week’s Nora as well. The overall fit seems okay but there’s really not much more I can say about this because I think there’s just not much to be seen on the pictures, I mean for a sewer. I’d’ve liked more exterior pictures or at least pictures with a light that really show the details sewers will be looking for.

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