EarthSeaSky Shirt: Jakob Pattern

Added Mar 15, 2010

by dare

London, United K...

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Description

This is my second and much more successful attempt at the Jakob shirt. This time it’s come out a fantastic fit with only a few errors which hopefully you won’t notice!

This shirt is actually more the Jakob pattern as a basic, reworked with some help from some tailored shirts that we bought for my partner in Vietnam. The collar and collar stand have been reshaped and the shirt has been taken in a lot. I was talking to a man who used to be a pattern cutter and was now working in a men’s tailors and he told me that a good collar stand should be slightly curved down at the tips, to get a good 3 dimensional fit around the front of the neck. The stand I’ve ended up with is almost banana shaped, but not quite that extreme.

I tried putting in a number of features but some were more obvious than others. I put pin tucks through the collar stand, collar and cuffs but the nature of the strips makes them almost invisible. I also did two top stitches in blue and around along the edge of the collar, cuffs and the top of the pocket and I do like the way this came out. It breaks up the stripes. The big luminous dark purple/blue buttons are really nice too – they’ve almost become a feature of their own. The cuffs are French cuffs again, since I like that style. It’s great to have a type of jewellery that men have to pick and choose to their own taste (cufflinks that is) and aren’t embarrassed to wear. I used a placket tutorial off this site too, as I preferred the style.

The lovely brown, cream and blue makes me think of the earth, wind and water, hence EarthSeaSky. But my partner would probably call it That 70’s Shirt. He’s not a big fan of stripes.

Material Notes

Cotton

Difficulty

Novice

Related Techniques

Categories

For
Men
Garment Type
Shirts
Style
Business, Casual
Material
Cotton

3 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • Photo_38_large

    Apr 16, 2010, 04.04 PMby qi-chick

    Nicely done! Does the jakob pattern include a variation for french cuffs or did you draft them yourself? I am trying to find a pattern for a 70’s look (larger collar and french cuffs) Any suggestions?

    1 Reply
    • 67f2c04548980ff46226d7497d8692937bd29f9b_large

      Apr 16, 2010, 05.56 PMby dare

      Thanks gi chick,

      The pattern doesnt come with french cuffs but its really easy to use their cuff as an outline.

      Mirror the size of their cuff along the long length (so its more square shaped then rectangle. Cut 4. Press 15mm up on one long edge of 2 pieces. Match one turned up piece with one non-turned up piece. Stitch 3 sides together minus the 15mm at the one long edge. Turn rightside out. Stitch unturned edge to the cuff. Fold that seam inward and use the pressed in edge to match that seam and stitch that down too.

      Did that make sense? It makes less sense typing then thinking!

      The actual Jakob’s collar is much bigger and longer down the front. It might just do a 70s look as it is.

      If that didn’t help let me know and I’ll try to explain more clearly!

      Best regards,

      D

  • Dscf4117_1_large

    Mar 21, 2010, 04.11 PMby lilioleana

    Very well done! It looks so professional

  • 1_large

    Mar 15, 2010, 01.45 PMby ashchaser

    so classy! This does look like it fits quite well

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This project is based on

Burdastyle

http://burdastyle.com//projects/earthseasky-shirt-jakob-pattern