EarthSeaSky Shirt: Jakob Pattern
Added Mar 15, 2010
London, United K...
This is my second and much more successful attempt at the Jakob shirt. This time it’s come out a fantastic fit with only a few errors which hopefully you won’t notice!
This shirt is actually more the Jakob pattern as a basic, reworked with some help from some tailored shirts that we bought for my partner in Vietnam. The collar and collar stand have been reshaped and the shirt has been taken in a lot. I was talking to a man who used to be a pattern cutter and was now working in a men’s tailors and he told me that a good collar stand should be slightly curved down at the tips, to get a good 3 dimensional fit around the front of the neck. The stand I’ve ended up with is almost banana shaped, but not quite that extreme.
I tried putting in a number of features but some were more obvious than others. I put pin tucks through the collar stand, collar and cuffs but the nature of the strips makes them almost invisible. I also did two top stitches in blue and around along the edge of the collar, cuffs and the top of the pocket and I do like the way this came out. It breaks up the stripes. The big luminous dark purple/blue buttons are really nice too – they’ve almost become a feature of their own. The cuffs are French cuffs again, since I like that style. It’s great to have a type of jewellery that men have to pick and choose to their own taste (cufflinks that is) and aren’t embarrassed to wear. I used a placket tutorial off this site too, as I preferred the style.
The lovely brown, cream and blue makes me think of the earth, wind and water, hence EarthSeaSky. But my partner would probably call it That 70’s Shirt. He’s not a big fan of stripes.