Double collar dress with inseam pockets 09/2015
Added Dec 27, 2015
A classic shift dress with hidden pockets in the front, sleeveless, boat neck, comes in two lengths with option for mock button closure at the bust and detachable double collar. You can also choose to do some hand-stitching decorative stitch down the front of the dress, which I chose to do.
I made a size 38, as recommended by Burda measurement guide. If I were to make this again, I would definitely make a size 36 or even 34 as I had to modified the pattern due to looseness.
I did my usually alteration of reducing the width of the shoulders using Nancy.Z’s pivoting method. I took in 1" from each side of the shoulder.
I made the dress without a muslin, I thought Burda was pretty true to size from previous experiences so I made the recommended size 38, unfortunately as I fitted myself while making the dress I noticed how roomy it was. But luckily this was an easy fix because of the panels and simple structure of the dress. I took 2" from the back seam of the dress before inserting the zipper. I took 0.5" from each side seam of the dress and another 0.5" when sewing up the back darts.
I used a light weight wool mix fabric I got on sale for this dress. The fabric is beige with some gold threads running through the grain. It has a lovely shimmer when viewed in certain light. For the lining, I used a silky fabric of beige and black polka dots (which end up being perfect as I only have black snap fasteners left and this blended straight in with the lining). And I used a darker beige gabardine fabric that I had in my stash for the contrasting collar.
The directions recommended that you use 2.2m of fabric but I had exactly 2m of the main fabric. I had to do some origami/piecing with the random off-cuts to make the collar (you can see what I did in the photo where the collar is flipped up). The contrast fabric were also off-cuts so I had to do the same thing with it. Because of the piecing, the collar was not cut to the grainline but I really hate throwing away fabric and it doesn’t look too bad from the top view.