Donegal Tweed Hikaru
Added Sep 26, 2009
Brooklyn, New Yo...
After 2 muslins (size 44, and 42), and bunch of obsessive pattern alterations and solicitation of advice from my tech team, I ended up going with the size 44, with no alterations. Why? Because as cute as this is when it fits snug (42) I want to wear this over sweaters come fall/winter…. and the size 44 will allow that. I could have added a CB seam to the peplum and shaved it in the CB and side seams, but I decided to just go with it. If I make it again (and with this much practice with the pattern I might as well) I will go with a smoother suiting material (but still probably wool) and make the 42.
The only real alteration I made was using lining for the collar stand facing. I should have used it for the back neck facing as well, this donegal tweed is ITCHY! But I’ll won’t be wearing it over tank tops so it’s fine. My neck is grateful for the lining though.
One of the sewers at work showed me how to shorten the metal separating zipper. It involved an awl, a rubber mallet, pliers, scissors, and had nothing to do with bar-tacking with a sewing machine. I hope to do a how to someday, because that was darn useful information.
Oh, I didn’t like the shape of the epaulette pattern piece. It doesn’t make a symmetrical piece. If I do this jacket again I will correct that.
ETA: And I thought the instructions for the bottom hem and the front facing seams where way vague. I followed some instructions from Threads Magazine (online) for bagging the lining, but I should note here that you should NOT sew the facing to the front without stopping for the facing seam allowance. The picture in the instructions would indicate other wise.
100% New Wool, Scottish Donegal Tween (Marc Jacobs remnant from waaaay back in like 2004),
100% Rayon twill lining – NY Elegant Fabric, 10 awesome buttons from M&J Trim, black thread (top stitch), brown thread (button holes), black metal separating zipper, black shoulder pads, black fusible interfacing